Cologne is one of those cities that draws anyone with a penchant for showstopping architecture. A major German rail hub, Cologne is easy to drop into — a place to stop for the day — though it deserves a linger. Most come to stand within the city’s heaven-scraping Cologne Cathedral, a 13th-century Gothic masterpiece sure to make onlookers feel Lilliputian in size. Urbane, the city occupies the banks of the River Rhine, playful and smart, a melange of old and new. Founded as a Roman colony in 50 AD as one of Germany’s oldest cities, it invokes historical gravitas and regal modernity through its varied architecture, a combination of centuries-old hallmarks and craftily new-built structures, constructed after WWII bombs destroyed much of the city.
Beloved not just for Cologne Cathedral, but for its special beer called Kölsch, Cologne (or Koln in German) inevitably draws travelers into its rustic beer houses (brauhäuser), each locally touted for its own version of the town’s unique, lightly crisp brew. Convivial and welcoming, these beer houses follow strict traditions, rituals set in stone during the 1800s. To play by the rules: quench your thirst from a tiny, cylindrical Kölsch glass (sip-sized at 0.2 l), plopped on your rough-hewn table by a theatrically grumpy waiter called a Köbe. You’ll know him by his uniform: high-collared, blue-knitted, dotted with a double row of black buttons, his blue apron over black pants, and his leather pouch ready to collect payment. He’ll balance a tray loaded with diminutive beer glasses above his head, sashaying vigorously between tables. Watch out. He’ll replace your empty with a full one without asking you, as convention dictates. Had enough? Place your coaster atop your empty glass and he’ll leave you in peace to nosh pork knuckle, red cabbage, and sauerbraten with dumplings and applesauce.
Vibrant with hip techno-night spots, al fresco cafe tables galore with river views, perfume stores that date back centuries, museums with subject matter from chocolate to Roman artifacts, and stellar shopping, Cologne makes for a lively city stay. But, I prefer to roost less than 10 miles from the hubbub, through the leafy woods at Althoff Grandhotel Schloss Bensberg, a bonafide castle, the second largest Baroque palace north of the Alps. A haven with gardens inspired by Versailles, a two Michelin-starred restaurant, a priceless art collection, and all manner of coat of arms, cartouches, heraldry, and bygone armour, it even flaunts a Cinderella-worthy coach. Not a fairytale cliche, the elegant, comfortingly unpretentious Althoff Grandhotel Schloss Bensberg was built by a nobleman as an homage to his wife in 1703. A family-owned, five-star hotel for decades, it frames suite views of Cologne, enlivened by the spires of Cologne Cathedral reaching for the sky. Standing in my suite, I feel the princely love vibe in spades.
What It’s Like
The kind of hotel we’ve been missing lately, this marvelous bastion of luxury doesn’t define sumptuousness by flagrant Kardashian-style norms. Instead, this hotel vaunts an old-school money kind of luxury, the tip top of hideaways that knows it’s less about conspicuous name brands and external monitors than pure service, thoughtfully opulent furnishings, priceless art, and food drawn from the region. There’s art, gild, modern paintings, top-notch linens and staff you’d trust with your life at Schloss Bensberg. The Presidential Suite, at 1700 square feet, has a huge marble bathroom and private sauna. The castle stands on a hill above a characteristic village with woods and parkland in its expanses. Though Cologne is near, Schloss Bensberg reigns as its own destination.
Where You’ll Eat and What You’ll Do at Schloss Bensberg
In the castle overlooking the garden, two-starred Vendôme is a gastronomic destination. Once the kitchen of legendary chef Joachim Wissler, the restaurant’s now led by his former sous chef, Dennis Kuckkuck — and still getting accolades. Choose from a vegetarian or meat-based tasting menu with the option of alcohol-free pairings or wine. Within the hotel, guests and visitors can also choose from an Italian restaurant or French Bistro, as well as the Castle Restaurant, which serves up a bountiful buffet in the mornings. The 4 Elements Spa by Althoff encompasses 10,000 square feet of wellness with a variety of sauna, treatment rooms, a pool, and fitness center. A med spa, Institut Uniq, occupies a portion of the castle, offering holistic and personalized surgeries and recovery.
What Not to Miss in Cologne
The Cathedral Quarter: Germany’s most visited landmark, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Cologne Cathedral mesmerises with its twin spires, Gothic architectural elements, and eye-catching stained glass. Standing inside it connotes a spiritual experience. Outside, in the Domplatte — the huge pedestrian square outside the church — crowds gather in the Cathedral’s shadows, struck with awe. While amongst them, look for Althoff’s newest hotel, Althoff Dom Hotel, which opens later this year. Situated across the square, the renovated luxury escape features riveting views of the Cathedral, close enough to touch. While in the quarter, walk the city’s most famous, pedestrian shopping street, Schildergasse, which undulates from the Dom to Neumarkt and Hohe Straße, a route awash in fashionable boutiques. Browse Galeria Kauhof, formerly Kaufhaus Tietz, a storied department store.
Drink a Kölsch or Two: It’s easy to find a beer house with an open table in the Cathedral Quarter and Old Town. We’re fond of FRÜH am Dom, an atmospheric and authentic bauhaus, located steps from the Cathedral. It’s one of Cologne’s oldest and most characteristic, starring the city’s crankiest (yet most affable) waiters.
Take Some Cologne Home: Said to be the birthplace of eau de cologne, Cologne has two historic, competing perfume brands, each insisting their own, lightly fragrant recipe not only smells sublime, but soothes the spirit. Farina, since 1709, came first touting a blend of citrus oils and lavender with pure alcohol. It’s still run by descendants of the family. 4711 followed suit in 1792 with an herbaceous variation all its own. Visit both flagships to discover which you prefer. (I have both.)
Museums: The Romano-Germanic Museum displays artifacts found in and near Cologne while the Museum Ludwig presents galleries of modern art. The Wallraf-Rachartz Museum, a fine art trove which spans centuries, and the Chocolate Museum are also worth your time between beers.
Hiking and Biking: The castle sits within Bergisches Land Nature Park, a leafy green space rife with hiking and biking trails.
Rhine Cruises: A number of companies offer boat rides down the Rhine, with evening cruises being among the most popular.
Feature image courtesy of Althoff Grandhotel Schloss Bensberg.
