Our family has long loved America’s national parks. Over the last decade, we’ve traveled to a dozen of them together, many in the Western U.S. We’ve gazed at the impossible colors of lakes at Glacier in Montana and marveled at Milky Way at Arches in Utah. We’ve examined ancient trees at Petrified Forest in Arizona, hiked the dunes at White Sands in New Mexico, and simply gaped at the grandeur of the Grand Canyon.
But somehow, we’d neglected Yellowstone, said to be the world’s first National Park — and arguably, America’s most famous. Add to that the fact that as we’ve gotten older (both the adults and the kids), we’ve gravitated more towards creature comforts in lodging, as opposed to roughing it in the parks themselves. This naturally led us to focus on Jackson Hole, Wyoming, and make this playground of the uber-wealthy our home base for exploring Yellowstone. Plus, attacking the park from the south meant that Grand Teton National Park was also in the mix, as it sits squarely between Jackson and Yellowstone.
Even when settling on Jackson (note that’s the city’s name; the whole valley region is Jackson Hole), you have viable luxury lodging. One choice is part way up the mountain at Jackson Hole Mountain Resort, a complex of hotels, restaurants, shops, and lifts to the mountaintop. The other is in the city center itself, lower down; there you’ll find a more extensive selection of amenities, but you’re slightly further from the hiking trails and outdoor action. We decided to split our trip and try both options.
Up in the Mountains
Within the Jackson Hole Mountain Resort, the Four Seasons Resort and Residences Jackson Hole is the premier offering, a five-star western-themed luxury property that boasts spacious guest rooms, as well as a selection of suites. We stayed in one of the onsite residences, truly impressive accommodations that range from two to five bedrooms. Our two-bedroom residence allowed our family some privacy and plenty of room to lounge, including a well-appointed family room and large deck. There was also a full kitchen, laundry room, and even a guest bathroom. We enjoyed the little extras, such as a steam shower in the main bedroom and walk-in closets.
The resort has plenty of dining options, such as the steakhouse-with-a-view Westbank Grill, the pub-like Handle Bar, and the Ascent Lounge. One special experience here is a seasonal Omakase dinner at Ascent, a memorable 12-course sushi meal for up to 8 people, with the freshest fish flown in daily. It’s like a private chef’s table, and our family enjoyed chatting with our chef, Kazu (Yoshikazu Ebina), who trained in Tokyo and has worked in Miami and Aspen. There’s also a winter version of the Omakase for ski season, with a 14-course menu.
I enjoyed the pun-ny name of the resort’s Rosé Garden, located near the pool, where you can enjoy a glass of rosé al fresco — with a dramatic view of the mountains. We also took advantage of the resort’s eBikes on the extensive network of multi-use bike paths that run past the property. And the onsite spa is ideal after a long day of park exploring; I tried the 120-minute Sacred Earth Ritual, which features a full-body exfoliation followed by a hydrating geothermal mud mask, a hair/scalp treatment, and concludes with a massage. Many of the spa treatments and services incorporate local or locally inspired ingredients.
To explore the national parks from the Four Seasons, the resort offers a range of wildlife safaris. For the southern part of Yellowstone or Grand Teton, dedicated naturalists serve as guides as they transport you in luxury SUVs. These full-day trips are customizable, depending on your family’s desires, and include breakfast and a luxe picnic lunch prepared by the resort chef. For the northern part of Yellowstone, there’s an option that includes a private plane flight to those further-away locales, home to plenty of wildlife. Additionally, there are stargazing and fly-fishing excursions offered.
Down in the City
Hotel Jackson was our pick in downtown Jackson, and it was a splendid choice. The comfortable yet high-end rustic décor here made me want to redesign my whole home in similar fashion. This family-owned boutique property, opened in 2016, currently has 55 rooms and suites, with an expansion on track for opening next summer, adding 9 additional luxury suites, a spa infinity pool, rooftop bar, and lounge.
Rooms are plenty large for families and yet cozy. We loved the property’s commitment to LEED standards, as well as the vibe in the Sacajawea Library, perfect for reading or enjoying a libation. The kids were entranced by the rooftop hot tub and the daily cookies and organic teas that are put out by the staff. We found the location to be perfect for exploring the town, an eclectic mix of shops, art galleries, western wear, bars, and restaurants. And the staff here is wonderful, giving advice on the best local spots.
Great food is also a centerpiece at Hotel Jackson, with its excellent FIGS restaurant recently receiving the coveted Wine Spectator’s Award of Excellence for its exceptional wine selection. The dining spot is a delightful and unexpected journey into the vibrant Lebanese cuisine of the hotel’s owners.
There are plenty of local excursions that the hotel will book for you, including an incredible stargazing experience with Wyoming Stargazing. This three-hour adventure takes you to a dark-sky location, where you see various celestial wonders through their telescopes, including the moon, star clusters, planets, and galaxies. The outfitter even included chairs, blankets, and binoculars for us. (Another option for astronomy enthusiasts is a closer jaunt up Snow King Mountain to the new Jackson Hole Planetarium and Observatory.) For those interested in daylight adventures, Hotel Jackson has partners for scenic river floats, shooting experiences, ATV tours, paddleboarding, and eBikes.
One of our favorite — and unexpected — highlights of the trip was lunch at the National Museum of Wildlife Art, a short drive from Hotel Jackson. This is an institution that dates back to 1987 and features art from Andy Warhol, Georgia O’Keeffe, and many others; 5,000 artworks in total. The museum’s collections captivated the whole family, with an impressive outdoor sculpture gallery and a unique building that blends old and new. Lunch at the museum’s Palate Restaurant, which offers excellent, high-end cuisine, and an unmatched view of the National Elk Refuge, was so dramatic. This is truly dining with a view at the highest level.
Featured image by Harrison Hargrave via Unsplash; Travel Curator may earn a commission from product or booking links on this page.
