Worth Traveling For
The Empordà is often called the Hamptons of Catalonia, or the Cotswolds of the Mediterranean: a weekend or summer destination for Barcelona’s elite. This inland area of the Costa Brava is a haven of quiet luxury, centuries-old stone farmhouses, and a wealth that doesn’t like to flaunt itself. In this area full of vacation homes and private villas, Mas de Torrent is the rare five-star hotel that stays true to the spirit of the place.
The hotel already had a long history when it became a personal favorite of Pau Guardans i Cambò, the former AC Hotels executive who founded Spain’s delightful micro-group Único Hotels two decades ago. He liked it so much that it became one of his first acquisitions and a flagship of his brand. In the years that followed, it was accepted into Relais & Châteaux and Virtuoso, then was awarded two Michelin Keys, all while staying true to its essential character as a timeless, romantic retreat.
Hotel Highlights
Despite having only 39 rooms, Mas de Torrent has big-resort-style amenities. There’s an outstanding art collection, a stunning swimming pool, outdoor drink terraces, and e-bikes at the ready for exploring the area. The Mas Spa is quite large for a hotel this size, with a beautiful indoor swimming pool, a 24-hour gym, and a range of treatments from Natura Bissé and Comfort Zone. Guests have privileges at nearby golf courses, or they can book the hotel’s private Gozzo 35 with a professional skipper to explore the coves and fishing villages of the nearby coast.
This being Catalonia, gastronomy has always been a highlight. The area has one of Spain’s richest cuisines, notable for its mixing of sea and land ingredients. The hotel’s El Mas restaurant is beginning a delicious new chapter this year with the arrival of Eugeni de Diego as a new gastronomic consultant. Although he was Ferran Adrià’s right hand in the El Bulli universe, he’s largely moved on from the science experiments of the early 2000s molecular gastronomy era. Now, along with resident chef Marc Cabezas, he follows a vision that’s deeply rooted in product and place.
When enormous green olives arrive for the amuse-bouche, one could be forgiven for expecting the spherified bombs of liquid that many other El Bulli alums are still serving. But here they’re much simpler, full of their own flavor and natural texture, and stuffed with a sliver of Campari gelatin. (I said, “largely moved on.”) A multicolored tomato salad sings with flavor, tender anchovies are bathed in olive oil, and the “sea and mountain” dishes — like a giant cast-iron pan filled with pork rice and succulent scarlet prawns — shine.
Rooms & Experience
The Masía Suites in the main house, which dates from 1751, are full of original architectural details and well-maintained charm. Some have vaulted and carved ceilings, while others have antique wooden headboards. A few have small stone-walled terraces with café tables and views over the rolling Empordà countryside.
Alternatively, the remainder of the rooms occupy 1990s-style hotel blocks, with their room doors open to the outside, more space, and greater privacy. Some have walled gardens, while others have small swimming pools and sun loungers inside greenery-covered walls that are private enough that swimsuits are entirely optional.
Added in 2016, the Natur Suite occupies its own plot away from the main hotel buildings and surrounded by lavender fields. Everything was designed with sustainability in mind, from the handcrafted wooden furniture to the Sleep Green mattress. But all the rooms lean into natural materials, soft colors, and the sort of elemental simplicity that leaves a small footprint.
What to Know Before You Book
As with most beautiful places in Europe, summer can be a bit hectic around the Costa Brava. The most popular beaches get crowded, as do the cultural attractions such as the “Dalí Triangle” of houses and museums that showcase the artist’s life and work in the region. Mas de Torrent remains a quiet cocoon through it all, but those who want to use it as a base for exploring the region should consider booking in June or September, or even May or October.
In fact, Mas de Torrent is open throughout the year, and it takes on an even more romantic feeling in the winter months. Many of the public spaces have fireplaces, that spa pool is heated, and the hearty fideuilles noodles with ribs, sausages, and cod are even more satisfying.
Address: Torrent, Girona (Costa Brava), Spain
Afores de Torrent s/n 17123
Closest airports: Girona–Costa Brava (GRO), 45 minutes by car; Barcelona–El Prat (BCN), about 90 minutes by car
Featured image courtesy Único Hotels. Travel Curator may earn a commission from booking links on this page.
