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Lodge at Marconi

The drive along US-101 towards Napa and Sonoma is a familiar journey for wine enthusiasts and nature lovers alike – a route I have often traveled myself as a long-time resident of the San Francisco Bay Area. But veer left onto Highway Route 1, and you’ll soon find yourself on a different kind of adventure, winding through the lush ancestral lands of the Coast Miwok people, a far more laid-back pocket of Northern California; immaculate rows of grapevines give way to textural groves of pine trees, eucalyptus, and California sagebrush. Eventually, the dense greenery will subside to reveal the shimmering waters of Tomales Bay.

Set within West Marin County, one of the world’s most prolific foodsheds, Tomales Bay is renowned for its fresh oysters, Dungeness crabs, and seasonal vegetables. Where land meets sea, this region prides itself on farm-and-sea-to-table dining, with its sweeter, plumper oysters serving as a prime example of its nutrient-rich landscape.

I found much-needed downtime on a two-day getaway in Tomales Bay, just a 1.5-hour drive away from San Francisco. With picturesque views, locally sourced foods, and idyllic towns dotting the coastline, Tomales Bay is an unspoiled beauty and charming counterpart to the more frequented wine country.

Where to Stay in Tomales Bay 

The New Kid on the Block: Lodge at Marconi, Marshall

Image by Asher Moss

Sitting on 62 acres of a historic state park, Lodge at Marconi welcomed its first guests in Fall 2023 after a multimillion dollar renovation by Brooklyn-based design firm, Home Studios. Think wooden cube wall art, earth-tone palettes, and oversized windows to amplify the surrounding green wilderness for decor. I enjoyed my cozy Deluxe King Loft overlooking Tomales Bay, complete with a dedicated workspace; bergamot, bee balm, and rockrose-scented bath amenities; and vaulted ceilings. 

It was difficult to pry me away from the bed’s plush pillows, but the Lodge at Marconi is an activity-filled campground waiting to be explored, offering 3.5 miles of hiking trails, giant Jenga, bocce, and hilltop yoga. For a more mellow vibe, grab a book, head to the community fire pit, and settle into one of the many Adirondack chairs for reading and reflection. 

The Historic Gem That Does it All: Nick’s Cove, Marshall

living area in nicks cove
Image by Christopher Stark

For nearly 100 years, Nick’s Cove has been known for its exceptional hospitality in both lodging and dining. The property has 12 bayside cottages that can accommodate up to four and six guests. Each cottage features unique nautical-inspired interiors with calming hues of blue, teal, and white that mirror the bay. If you’re in a waterfront cottage, start your morning by enjoying a hot cup of coffee on your private deck, while taking in breathtaking water views. Whenever you crave a bite, take a short walk to Nick’s Cove Restaurant, where fresh and sustainable coastal classics await.

The Luxurious Retreat Worth the Drive: The Lodge at Bodega Bay, Bodega Bay 

Lodge at Bodega Bay
Photo by Travis Watts, courtesy of The Lodge at Bodega Bay

While The Lodge at Bodega Bay requires travelers to venture further north, its elegance and luxury make the journey worthwhile. From the bayside Whirlpool room’s romantic fireplace and bathtub for two, to the 1,200 square-foot Captain’s Quarters’ furnished sun deck and Bose Wave sound system, each guest room includes a personalized touch for both couples and families. Remember to unwind with a soothing ocean shell massage or rejuvenating cabernet grape sea scrub at the spa. Wine lovers should not miss a dinner reservation at Drakes, the in-house restaurant featuring hundreds of fine wines from the Sonoma Coast, Russian River Valley, and beyond.

The Chic Boutique Pick: Olema House, Olema

With 22 rooms and 2 private cottages set on 4 acres of beautifully landscaped gardens, Olema House offers a stylish experience for those looking for convenient town access (a 5-minute drive from downtown Point Reyes Station). Best of both worlds, Olema House is surrounded by as much natural beauty as the other local accommodations. Explore the nearby wildlife with a set of vintage or modern binoculars borrowed from the hotel’s Binocular Bar. 

Eating & Drinking

Tony s Seafood
Image by Remy Anthes

Oysters take center stage at Tomales Bay. My favorite culinary experience, Tony’s Seafood — a Michelin Guide-approved local staple of the Hog Island Oyster Company family — delights diners with stunning bayside seating and an ever-evolving menu of fresh oysters, some harvested and hand-delivered from two minutes up the road. Classics, like the Hog Island clam chowder and grilled oysters smothered in chipotle bourbon or miso nori butter, have earned a permanent spot on the menu. 

Across the bay in Inverness, at Saltwater Oyster Depot, pique your palette with broiled local oysters seasoned with fermented fresno chili, tamari, and white wine. If oysters aren’t for you, Station House Cafe provides casual yet refined dining with hearty dishes such as wagyu skirt steak and mushroom risotto with slow-cooked duck confit.

Most dining spots around Tomales Bay offer an impressive selection of Northern California fine wines, but my tasting surprise came from honey, not grapes, at Heidrun Meadery. With honey sourced from Hawaii to Ethiopia, this artisanal meadery uses the traditional French Méthode Champenoise to create crisp and complex meads. For $25, you can sample a flight of Heidrun’s classics or seasonal meads — I particularly enjoyed the Oregon Blackberry Blossom for its effervescence and aroma, and couldn’t help but bring a bottle home with me.

What to Do 

Blue Waters Kayaking
Courtesy of Blue Waters Kayaking

The main coastal stretch along Tomales Bay is only 20 minutes by car, and caters to both the restful and active. At the Southern edge, Point Reyes Station is a former railroad town filled with coffee shops, bookstores, and restaurants, ideal for a leisurely afternoon.

Hiking and walking trails that overlook the bay are abundant, inviting visitors to immerse themselves in nature. In the evenings, ideally on still nights, join Blue Waters Kayaking for a memorable bioluminescence kayaking experience above the bay’s glowing underwater organisms.

For those looking for more educational fun, learn about the oyster harvesting process and shuck a few of your own at the iconic Hog Island Oyster Farm, or sample truffle brie and fennel blue cheese at Point Reyes Farmstead Cheese Company in cheese tastings and farm tours offered year round.

After two days in Tomales Bay, I realized this region offers more than just an opportunity to slow down and recharge. A peaceful energy flows up and down the coast, but the locals are anything but idle— they work hard to ensure the food is lovingly produced and the natural beauty remains pristine. Whether you’re a Bay Area resident seeking a weekend escape, or an out-of-town visitor looking for something new, Tomales Bay allows you to experience Northern California in its most authentic form.

Featured image by Brian Ferry