Worth Traveling For
There are newer, name-brand luxury hotels in Lecce, the Baroque beauty of southern Puglia, but Patria Palace was the city’s first five star. And like the city around it, the hotel’s confident appeal has only matured with time. The designers pulled off that uniquely Italian formula of mixing the historic (vaulted ceilings, a long, crooked marble staircase that they aren’t allowed to fix) with the contemporary (sleek light fixtures from Flos, an assemblage of Fornasetti plates) to create something wholly original. The staff is capable; the service is well-practiced. Everyone seems genuinely delighted to receive you.
Between its royal bones as a noble residence in the 18th century, its gorgeous rooftop restaurant with drop-dead views of Basilica di Santa Croce, and its massive new subterranean spa, Patria Palace makes sense for a variety of travelers. Cultural immersion, romance, and wellness are all on the menu — alongside the rooftop aperitivos and pasticciotto leccese pastries on the breakfast spread.
Hotel Highlights
Patria Palace is tucked into a corner near one of the main squares of Lecce’s Baroque old city. It’s out-of-the-way enough to minimize chaos in front but central enough to be an easy walk to almost everything — and that basilica view speaks volumes. The building itself, a Baroque jewel, was designed in the 18th century by Mauro Manieri, one of the city’s leading architects of the time. It became the city’s first inn in 1850 and was named its first five-star hotel in 1997.
The restaurant, Atenze, takes its name from two important and roughly equidistant cities of past empires, Athens and Florence. Likewise, the menu reflects the cross-cultural traditions of Salento, as this southern region of Puglia is known. Chef Cristiano Stamerra has a deft hand with creative dishes that showcase local ingredients like cotto e crudo di mare (cooked and raw seafood with a reduction of rockfish and seaweed) and sagna ’ncannulata (a twisted fresh pasta, here served with a variation of goat Genovese sauce and cardoon milk).
In the summer, the dining room moves up to the rooftop. There, it sits beside the Sira Rooftop Bar, which has already mastered the art of the aperitivo and is currently better than ever thanks to a partnership with Rome’s Drink Kong.
Rooms and Experience
The 43 recently renovated rooms have Art Deco-inspired decorative details, like those globe Flos lamps and sumptuous, jewel-toned fabric headboards. Each one has unique wall frescoes by American artist and architect John Duggan, reflecting the harmonious blend of influences found within the palace. The bathrooms are large, marble, and well outfitted.
Unsurprisingly, the best suites are on the top floor, where some have private terraces with the same excellent views of the basilica as the rooftop. One even has a hot tub and sun loungers. Others face internal courtyards and have somewhat limited natural light, if you come to think of it. But you probably won’t, because the high ceilings feel airy and the lighting design is well done. Besides, a cool dark room can be a welcome refuge from the Italian summer heat.
Or you might intentionally be in a different cool dark room. The newly opened Idume Spa draws inspiration from the mysterious underground river that flowed beneath the city for centuries. It’s no coincidence that water features take center stage, both in the sculptural decorative fountains and in the extensive wet areas, including a laconicum bio sauna and a steamy caldarium and hammam, as well as a big thermal pool with jets in various places. Best of all, it’s fully privatized for just one guest (or couple) to enjoy before a treatment.
What to Know Before You Book
Conventional wisdom says to avoid Lecce in summer, when temperatures can soar past 100 degrees. While it’s true that afternoons are hot and the city takes a collective siesta, the warm summer evenings are magical. Outside, the city stays fully alive until late, and Patria Palace’s rooftop aperitivo and dinner are at their best when bathed in golden sunset light.
The air-conditioned guest rooms and lounges, not to mention the spa, are a fine place to rest during the afternoon. The hotel also maintains a partnership with an Adriatic beach and offers beach club service and a scheduled shuttle. Note that this isn’t included in all rates and room typologies, so if it’s important to you, ask when booking.
Address: Piazzetta Riccardi 13, Lecce, Puglia, Italy
Closest airport: Brindisi (about 40 minutes by car)
Feature image courtesy of Patria Palace, OH Collection. Travel Curator may earn a commission from booking links on this page.
