Rome is a wonderful ramble of venerable history, artistic brilliance, sleek modernity, shrewd style, lustful dolce vita, and Renaissance flair presented in a rapid-fire, flip-book of visual delight. “Rome isn’t just a list of landmarks, it’s a combination of moments that capture the city’s soul,” says Simone Amorico, co-owner of Rome-based Access Italy, a luxury travel company favored by the likes of Oprah. To tap into that soul, explore the city by neighborhood, but be willing to get lost. “Wander away from the main tourist routes into the side streets and piazzas,” says Amorico. “That’s where you’ll find the real Rome: a neighborhood cafe, a hidden fountain, a medieval church — all with no queue.”
Don’t expect the well-defined neighborhoods of Paris or New York in Rome. The city’s most famous neighborhoods (historically called rioni) were established by edict centuries ago.Today, many are known by multiple names, whether an official title or a historic nickname. To make it easier, tourists and Romans alike sometimes simply refer to an area by the name of its main attraction.
In truth, cobwebby lines and neighborhood borders overlap all across the Eternal City. They subsume one another, sometimes growing in size to become a trove of combined rioni — as in the case of the Centro Storico (historic center). Often, boundaries blur. Commonly, you won’t realize you’ve arrived in the neighborhood you seek until an iconic monument, famous restaurant, or renowned hotel confirms it. When in doubt, look for the “x marks the spot” marble plaques found in some quarters, such as the one in Trastevere. No matter where you go, Rome’s big personality runs through every characteristic district, connecting them all with its extraordinary cultural glue.
Centro Storico
Isabella Calidonna, founder of ArcheoRunning and an art historian, relishes the chance to guide clients on intellect-pleasing running tours through the historic center. Touting the neighborhood’s gift of offering a portal to something eternal, Calidonna admires its “narrow streets, the soft echo of footsteps on cobblestones, the sudden opening of a sunlit piazza.” Especially magical on crowd-free mornings (walking or running with Calidonna), the historic center is where the lion’s share of the city’s famous sites lie — from the Pantheon to the Trevi Fountain.
Places To Stay
- Singer Palace Hotel – An exquisite, family-owned hotel with jewel box details, a buzzy rooftop bar, one Michelin Key, and a contemporary riff on dolce vita.
- Orient Express La Minerva – With an unrivalled location behind the Pantheon, this 17th-century, Art Deco-redone villa boasts 360-degree rooftop views.
- Hotel Maalot — Trumpted as a restaurant with rooms, this stunning, intimate hotel, steps from the Trevi Fountain, gets accolades for its restaurant, Don Pasquale.
Places to Eat & Drink
- Armando al Pantheon — A snug family-owned restaurant known for its hearty Roman dishes like cacio e pepe.
- Pipero Roma — Boasting one Michelin Star, this sophisticated establishment is full of celebrities eating carbonara.
- Pizzeria da Baffetto — A no-frills, sit-down Roman (thin crust) pizzeria.
- Giggetto Al Portico D’Ottavia — In the Jewish Quarter, this haven of Jewish-Roman cuisine (since 1923), cooks up life-changing plates: deep-fried artichokes and Gricia pasta, to name a few.
Places to Shop
- Deodato Arte — A modern, contemporary, and street-art gallery in Via Giulia near Piazza Navona.
- Libreria Fahrenheit 451 — A dreamy, rare bookstore in Campo de Fiori.
- Bottega Mortet — Buy handcrafted fountain pens at this historic store.
- Bissolati 30 — A chic women’s clothing shop with Italian and European brands near the Pantheon.
- Giuncart — An artful wicker co workshop in the Campo de Fiore.
Spanish Steps/Via Dei Condotti
Who doesn’t love the famous scene from Roman Holiday where Gregory Peck hops down the Spanish Steps in a dapper suit to hobnob with gelato-eating Princess Ann (Audrey Hepburn). It’s as if they have the whole Baroque stairway to themselves. Today, brimming with tourists, the site anchors an opulent district, which stretches between the Trevi Fountain and the Piazza del Popolo. Girding key shopping streets, such as swanky Via Condotti, this area holds world-class design houses from Armani to Valentino.
Places to Stay
- Hotel Hassler — Owned and run by the Wirth family for generations, beloved by Audrey Hepburn, this legendary hotel crowns the Spanish steps offering panoramic views and beau monde-level luxury.
- Hotel de Russie — A premier Rocco Forte hotel on the Piazza de Popolo with a secret garden and upscale aperitivo scene.
- Fendi Private Suites — An immersive fashion hotel in a 17th-century palazzo with Fendi Casa furniture and Lepanto marble bathrooms.
Places to Eat & Drink
- Hostaria da Pietro — A family-owned, wood-paneled restaurant beloved by locals for its truffle dishes and artichokes since 1946.
- Gelateria Della Palma — One of Rome’s oldest and most elegant places for gelato. Note: don’t stop and eat on the steps like Audrey Hepburn. It’s against the law.
- Dal Bolognese Roma — An elegant eatery serving Emilian dishes — think lasagna verde — with a see-and-be-seen location on the Piazza del Popolo.
- Imàgo — On the sixth floor of the Hotel Hassler, this Michelin-starred marvel serves Chef Andrea Antonini’s imaginative twist on classic Roman dishes, complemented by riveting views of the city.
- Le Galline — Helmed by three women, this virtuoso eatery near Piazza de Popolo offers Neapolitan fare with Roman influences. Get the fried zucchini, meatballs, semifreddo, and cacio e pepe.
Places to Shop
- Mia Home Design Gallery — An old palazzo that holds unique lighting, furniture, and design accoutrements.
- Schostal — A heritage luxury pajama shop and local cult favorite for evening style.
- Gentleman Roma — This is for men who crave some Casanova-level garments for their closet.
Ludovisi/Via Veneto
Elegant and posh, the Ludovisi area spreads out between the Spanish Steps and the Villa Borghese Gardens. A magnet for jet setters since its Dolce Vita era fame, it still emanates a Fellini-esque glitz. Edged by Via Veneto, a grand boulevard in the mode of Fifth Avenue that’s been recently revived, this district also embodies the balancing neoclassical spirit of the 200-acre Villa Borghese Gardens, known as Rome’s Central Park. Expect gorgeous hilltop views, buzzy restaurants, and must-see sites like the macabre Capuchin Crypt in the Santa Maria della Concezione dei Cappuccini church.
Places to Stay
- Hotel Eden Dorchester Collection — A fashion industry favorite, this glamorous hotel, complete with palatial suites, a spa, and Michelin-starred restaurant, exudes Roman splendor.
- Sofitel Roma Villa Borghese — An elegant palazzo, tucked into a quiet nook along the walls of the Borghese Gardens. It has a stunning rooftop restaurant.
- St Regis Rome — A Belle Epoque queen dripping with history, redone to the tune of $45 million with interiors by Pierre-Yves Rochon and daily Champagne sabering rituals.
- Anantara Palazzo Naiadi Rome Hotel — More in the Termini Station area, but on the verges of Via Veneto, this hotel faces Piazza di Repubblica, exuding grandeur and old-world splendor. The biggest hotel in Rome, awash in marble, it lies steps from the Baths of Diocletian, which has inspired its spa.
Places to Eat & Drink
- Harry’s Bar — The “it place” for a Bellini at an outdoor table and rubbernecking, this ritzy icon got its star power as a backdrop in Fellini’s La Dolce Vita.
- Settimio al Pellegrino — An Anthony Bourdain-approved mom-and-pop joint with an old-school Roman attitude, meatballs, and a bygone mood you’re happy to find.
- Osteria Barberini — An unpretentious, intimate eatery that emanates romance and serves a knockout tagliolini with white truffles.
Places to Shop
- Luisa Spagnoli Roma Veneto — A gorgeous clothing boutique for women.
- Campomarzio70 Roma Via Veneto — A tantalizing perfume store.
- Capuano Gioielleria — A family-owned jewelry store with unique creations.
Monti
Artsy Monti stretches between the Colosseum and Termini Station, connected by cobbled alleyways, spritzed with small, stylish stores, vintage shops, cafes, bars, and galleries where the owners are likely to be onsite to answer your questions. Once the domain of carpenters and shoe makers, it’s been gentrified a bit — now loaded with Bohemian brio, but spiced with Roman authenticity. This village-like district amounts to not only a shopper’s paradise, but a place to see new Rome express itself.
Places to Stay
- Palazzo Manfredi — Eye-popping direct views of the Colosseum would be enough to distinguish this 16th-century palazzo, but its lavish furnishings also seal the deal.
- Casa Monti — A delightful boutique hotel with 36 rooms that dances to the neighborhood’s Roman-style Boho beat.
Places to Eat & Drink
- Alle Carrette — Magical, down-an-alley pizza place by the Colosseum — everybody loves it.
- Taverna dei Fori Imperiali — Family-run trattoria beloved by locals for its burrata ravioli with pesto.
- Fafiuche — A wine bar for lingering and nibbling in style.
Places to Shop
- LOL Roma — Stylish, snappily curated boutique that well-dressed Roman women would rather not tell you about.
- Mind Jewels — A creative jewelry store where every piece has a story.
- Rigodritto — A home accessory store where everything sold is made in Rome.
Vatican City/Prati
Travelers tend to rush through Prati en route to Vatican City, the famed city-state that holds the Vatican Museums, the Sistine Chapel, and St. Peter’s Basilica. But take time to linger along Prati’s ample boulevards in the shadows of Castel Sant’Angelo, north of the Vatican. “In the Prati district, Rome softens its tone. Everything feels more orderly, more intimate, almost residential. It’s a quieter beauty — less immediate, but more lasting,” explains ArcheoRunning’s Calidonna.
Places to Stay
- The First Musica — A music-themed, boutique hotel awash in contemporary art and creative offerings.
- Rome Cavalieri, A Waldorf Astoria Hotel — Not technically in Prati, but nearby, this epic hotel lies in residential Balduina atop Monte Mario Hill. Dating from the 1960s, this enclave boasts a world-class art collection, Michelin-starred restaurant, pool, spa, and more.
Places to Eat & Drink
- Pizzarium Bonci — A tiny, chef-driven pizza spot famous for selling pizza a taglio (by the slice) with seasonal toppings.
- Il Sorpasso — The opposite of the area’s many tourist-focused eateries, this delightful restaurant deconstructs the scene with a hipster approach.
- Osteria Dell’Angelo — A decades-old neighborhood classic for simply satisfying Roman dishes.
- Parenti — A renowned pastry shop with old-school class.
- La Pergola — At Rome Cavalieri, this is Rome’s first and only three Michelin-starred restaurant under the direction of Heinz Beck.
Places to Shop
- Paralumi — An artisanal lampshade shop that dates back to 1938.
- Castroni — A specialty gourmet food store with pasta worth taking home in your carry-on.
Parioli
Residential and less touristed, this affluent, tree-lined neighborhood just north of the city center has Dallas Highland Park or New York Upper East Side vibes. Exclusive, minutes from Villa Borghese, its notable Art Nouveau architecture holds penthouses and glamorous apartments aplenty. Don’t miss the Quartiere Coppedè: a magical, self-contained, Surrealist district that flaunts a mix of fairytale architecture including Gothic, Art Nouveau, and Medieval.
Places to Stay
- Hotel Lord Byron — A small, friendly, Art Deco villa hotel with impeccable amenities and refined decor that encapsulates the spirit of the neighborhood.
- Parco dei Principi Grand Hotel and Spa — An urban oasis with bygone glam; brandishes first-class amenities and a huge spa.
Places to Eat & Drink
- Casa Santucci — This family-owned restaurant with a stately but warm atmosphere offers sublime Roman fare such as Amatriciana.
- Ercoli 1928 — An elevated hotspot for aperitivo and charcuterie boards.
- Taverna Rossini — Grab an outdoor table and order a margherita pizza with oodles of mozzarella at this neighborhood standout.
- Duke’s — A snazzy restaurant for date night with Rome’s best Negroni.
Places to Shop
- Il Mezzaro — The quintessential Roman fabric store for textile fanatics.
- Gargani — A gourmet grocery store for epicureans who love to take the goods home.
Trastevere
Not as funky, quiet, and undiscovered as it once was, Trastevere nevertheless — even with the nightly throngs — exudes that sense of a secret place for in-the-know revelers. On the west side of the Tiber River, it unfolds as a warren of one-time working class streets, currently gentrified to hold trendy trattorias, creative shops, wine bars, and beer pubs. Mill around Piazza Santa Maria and Piazza San Calisto for a lively vibe and stellar people watching. Make passeggiata here with a movable feast, stopping at different bars and restaurants for each course.
Places to Stay
- Villa Agrippina Gran Meliá, A Member of The Leading Hotels of the World — On the borders of Trastevere, this secluded sanctuary of luxurious tranquility is the neighborhood’s most wonderful stay.
Places to Eat & Drink
- Dar Poeta — Lingua di Foco (read: hot as peppery hell) pizza at this festive pizzeria, known for its special, slow-rising dough.
- Seu Pizza Illuminati — A short walk from Trastevere, this hip restaurant redefines the genre with a unique product.
- Osteria Le Mani in Pasta — Affable and indulgent, this restaurant serves up unforgettable dishes such as seabass carpaccio with truffles.
- Gelateria del Viale — The perfect stop on a warm afternoon for gelato.
Places to Shop
- Twice Vintage Shop — A highly curated vintage experience with Versace and more.
- Arte da Usare Studio Forme — A graceful artisan workshop with handmade and ceramic works.
- Almost Corner Bookshop — A tiny, old-school bookstore.
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