Worth Traveling For
Capella Ubud is not your standard-issue luxury resort plopped into the midst of Bali’s verdant jungles. The illustrious, whimsical designer Bill Bensley ensured that neither the architecture (tented) nor aesthetics (maximalist) are like anything else on the island. And its density, or lack thereof, is unique, too. Instead of hundreds of rooms on nine acres there are 23 artful accommodations total, and they’re on stilts, thoughtfully placed amid lush old-growth vegetation that was entirely preserved in the process.
It even occupies a site in the sweet, untouristy village of Keliki — some 20 minutes north of Ubud — that the locals couldn’t otherwise utilize since it spills down to the river too steeply. Unsurprisingly, sustainability efforts are sincere. Intimacy is a hallmark of this storytelling camp-influenced bolthole, which weaves yarns inspired by the 19th-century Danish trader Mads Lange and boasts a different theme for each tent. It’s not only a place to lounge by a lovely pool, though there is a phenomenal one — plus individual heated more-than-plunge pools for each tent, too — but a property where guests take a cultural deep dive, get in touch with their adventurous sides, and get a true sense of the warm, fascinating ways of the community.
Hotel Highlights
The aforementioned pool is a stunner — an above-ground showpiece with a bold zig-zag interior and saltwater pouring out of vaguely steampunk pipes-turned-fountains. Like the entire property, it looks out into dense emerald treetops; brass monkeys can be spotted cheekily climbing the tented rooftops. For its occupancy, Capella Ubud features robust food and beverage offerings, the star of which is most definitely Api Jiwa, an imaginative, exclusive-feeling chef’s counter–styled experience where wara-fire cooking with locally sourced, seasonal ingredients results in a journey of indelible dishes with references and techniques that dance across Asia.
An evening at Api Jiwa is a must, and begins with a cocktail at the campfire while old Balinese black-and-white films are projected charmingly. Mads Lange, with its intricately painted ceiling à la Michelangelo, but Balinese, is the three-meal-a-day outpost for tasty Indonesian cuisine and Western, too. There’s a pool bar and high tea is served in the Officer’s Tent. True to Beasley form, even the fitness center is memorably designed, while Capella convention dictates that the spa and wellness offerings are thoughtful and seductively relaxing, especially the Deep Sleep Therapy.
Rooms & Experience
Honeymooners and anniversary-celebrating couples with an intrepid streak will find happiness in virtually any of the one-bedroom tents, each singularly outfitted with antique accessories, art, and furnishings fitting for its individual theme, whether it’s photography or baking. There’s plenty of privacy to be had, from the daybeds to the real beds, and every little detail is considered, including minibar, bathtub, and even toilet design, which is again, memorable.
Because they are actual tents, the accommodations tend to be on the darker, moodier side, but there’s lots of radiant daylight to be had on their vast decks. For more of that, the two-bedroom Lodge with its own 200-square-foot pool including jacuzzi jets and decadent, vibrant open-air living room is its own sanctuary, well suited to families or friend groups, too.
What to Know Before You Book
Instead of a whirlwind couple-day survey of Ubud, this is the place to settle in and really immerse in the heritage and intimate experiences of Bali’s cultural heart. Plan on at least four or five nights that allow for a couple lazy days on property in the most glamorous camp ever, and also one or two bigger exploits, such as the off-road 4WD jeep Lavascape Adventure, which involves panoramas from the Penulis Hills, walks across black lava fields, a waterfall hike, and camp-inspired picnic on a bamboo boat as it flows across a bucolic lake. High adventure isn’t required, though: there are beautiful quiet pursuits, including focused Keliki-style painting lessons or a twinkling tour of a nearby firefly conservation project.
Address: Jl. RY Dalem, Keliki, Kec. Tegallalang, Kabupaten Gianyar, Bali 80561
Closest airport: I Gusti Ngurah Rai International Airport, 1.5 hours
Feature image courtesy of Capella Ubud. Travel Curator may earn a commission from product or booking links on this page.
