Autumn in Stowe, Vermont. The air is crisp and the leaves are in their full autumnal glory. I’m wrapped up in a plush Topnotch Resort spa robe, lounging in the outdoor hot tub, drinking a glass of wine, while taking in the sweeping, crimson-and-gold mountains. And I find myself falling deeply, madly in love with Stowe. Again.
I’ve been in love with Vermont for over a decade — since the first time my husband planned a weekend trip from NYC. (“Let’s skip The Hamptons traffic and unwind in Vermont,” he pitched). Since then, we’ve trekked north year after year for our mountain fix. Typically, I’d venture to Manchester, which is only a four-hour drive from the city; Stowe adds an extra hour or so. But after going three times (call me addicted), I can firmly share it’s worth the drive.
East Coasters know Stowe is where winter actually feels alive. Dubbed the “Snow Capital of the East,” this Vermont icon has skiers flocking to carve down Mount Mansfield by day and cozy up fireside by night. Yet beyond the slopes lies Stowe’s sleeker side — design-driven lodges, vibey après spots, and a surprisingly chic wellness and shopping scene that give this mountain town real style cred.
Where to Stop Along the Way
While Stowe is extra dreamy in the fall, it’s worth the trip any time of year. From NYC, expect about five to six hours in the car, or four from Boston. Driving up from Westchester, NY, I found the ideal mid-route stops for memorable bites and foliage views. Plug Tree House Brewing Company, a sprawling, atrium-style destination, into your GPS for famed craft beers, homemade seltzers, and cold brew (the trifecta). Order a crisp pour to pair with piping-hot bar pizza (I love their Summer Pie, which is topped with blistered tomatoes, mozzarella, and fresh herbs). You may even catch live music (we stayed for Toad the Wet Sprocket warming up mid lunch).
If you want something quicker, grab-and-go at The Vermont Country Deli in Brattleboro, VT. This foodie landmark, tucked into a charming farmhouse-style shop, is known for its towering, overstuffed sandwiches, decadent baked goods, and Instagram-worthy specialities like maple-pulled pork and mac and cheese.
Where to Stay
My gateway to Topnotch Resort was the spa and while it’s a draw, it’s certainly not the only reason to book this modern mountain stay. A dramatic cauldron of fire greets you at the entrance to the hotel, set on 20 acres of forest at the base of Mount Mansfield. This sets the stage for seemingly endless mountain views. There was be no shortage of staring at these peaks from the outdoor pool, the indoor pool, Roast (the tavern), and my townhouse. A highlight was being able to see the sunset over the mountains through the windows of our soaking tub. The main resort is a marriage of luxe retreat meets down-to-earth mountain lodge. Natural materials like stacked stone and exposed wood give it a grounding feel, while clean lines and oversized windows keep it contemporary.
You can’t leave without dipping into a body of water, even in winter. There is an abundance of pools and tubs, and I’ve been in all of them. Outdoors, you’ll find the main pool, as well as an adults-only pool and hot tub. The grounds are also simply gorgeous — especially if you’re heading there in spring or summer — with lush, colorful flowers, including pink sunflowers and hydrangeas. Inside, another pool and hot tub (this one with a waterfall), and tucked into the women’s and men’s lounges are Jacuzzis. You can order drinks at any of them, as well as food to your lounge chair.
Book a room in the main lodge so your morning decisions are deliciously easy: pancakes, Pilates, or a post-ski massage. But the real gems are the resort homes, a collection of one- to three-bedroom retreats complete with full kitchens, laundry, airy living rooms, and spacious decks for après-ski sunsets. The townhouses sit along quiet, wooded paths just a short stroll or shuttle ride from the main resort’s buzz. Our townhouse at Topnotch felt like a true mountain sanctuary — double doors opened to a gear-ready foyer that flowed into a light-filled space of leather sofas, rich woods, and locally crafted pottery. The open layout drifted from breakfast bar to dining table to living room, all framed by mountain views glowing gold at dusk. Upstairs, the primary suite sealed the deal: fireplace, soaking tub, and more closet space than a weekender could dream of.
Where to Dine
Reserve a table at Edson Hill for a relaxed high-end dining experience. In the warmer months, sit outside and take in breathtaking pond and mountain views. On cozier nights, head down to the tavern. It’s worth visiting for the perfectly balanced maple margarita alone, but the farm-to-table seasonal menu is equally impressive. Highlights from my last meal included bluefin tuna crispy rice, oysters with crème fraîche and caviar, and arctic char paired with smoky eggplant and summer squash.
For a cozy dinner on Main Street, head to Plate for California-meets-Vermont-inspired cuisine. Expect steamed mussels swimming in lick-the-plate sauce, buttery miso halibut, and the kind of burger — cheddar, special sauce, the works — that ruins all others. Pair it with Vermont beers, an exceptional wine list (by the glass or bottle), or creative cocktails, like the thin margins (featuring gin, Pimm’s No. 1, lime, ginger, maple, egg white).
Skip the crowds at the Von Trap Brewery and duck into Idletyme, a lively Stowe brewery where the wine is just as on point as the beer. The menu goes beyond pub fare, featuring elevated dishes like a standout black bean veggie burger, a juicy smash burger, and roast chicken with maple jus. Grab a spot on the back deck bar to watch the sun dip behind the mountains, then carry your glass of wine to a fire pit.
Don’t leave Topnotch without a meal at The Roost, a classic tavern with an elevated twist. I love sitting outside for lunch (again, mountain views), enjoying curried chicken salad wraps and salads dressed in maple vinaigrette, or head there for a nightcap and s’mores by the fire.
Where to Spa and Work Out
There’s something magnetic about the spa at Topnotch — healing, quiet, impossibly serene — I’ve found myself rebooking a massage every trip. The serene 35,000-square-foot sanctuary features 30 treatment rooms and a full menu, from signature massages and hydrating facials to energy-balancing rituals and body wraps infused with local botanicals. Post service, linger in the steam room and sauna or unwind by the women’s lounge fireplace in the solarium.
The fitness options are just as impressive, with a gym renovated in 2023 and all-day workout classes offered from Pilates to strength training. Tennis at Topnotch is an experience all its own — imagine playing with the mountains as your view and a babbling stream as your backdrop. The resort’s top-tier pros offer expert coaching and personalized clinics on both indoor and outdoor clay courts, making it a year-round tennis haven. (If you can book a lesson with the head pro, Simba, grab it — he fixed my forehand in under an hour.)
When I wasn’t on the court, I signed up for a spicy barre class at The Studio at Salt + Grove on Main Street. Gray wood floors and light-filtering drapes set the mood for a class that was spiritual and sweaty. Upstairs is a wellness boutique offering athleisure from brands like Splits59 and Spiritual Gangster, as well as beauty from brands like Laneige and Ursa Major.
Where to Shop
Stowe Mercantile is exactly what you hope for in a small-town general store. It feels like a step back in time, with rows of glass candy jars you can scoop from and weigh out, shelves of homemade mustards and jams (the apple cider mustard is a sweet-meets-savory must buy), and a surprising mix of kitchenware and kitschy-cool beauty finds. You’ll spot everything from wood-grain salad bowls and handcrafted coasters to tongue-in-cheek soaps with names like Dad Bod and Menopause.
Coco Goose brings a dose of city polish to the mountains. The well-edited boutique is known for denim walls stacked with premium labels (Ulla Johnson, Rag & Bone, Nili Lotan, Veronica Beard), cozy knits, and effortlessly cool staples.
If you’re a design lover, Farm Home Co. is pure eye candy. The space itself is all aesthetic — worn wood floors, leafy palms, woven baskets, and natural light streaming across raffia bags and Brixton hats. The shelves are curated with Dragon Diffusion totes, hand-loomed pillows in earthy neutrals, chic ceramics, and organic bedding. There’s even a corner for luxe kids’ clothes that feel straight out of a Scandinavian Pinterest board. Spending 15 minutes there, and you’ll want to redo your home.
At this point, Stowe is less of a getaway and more of a habit — and I have zero plans to break it.
Feature image courtesy of Topnotch Resort.
