Since 1976, when a blind wine tasting in France named a Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon its best, the world has revered the Northern California region for its wine quality — and tasting costs have soared. But just a few miles away, another more laid-back viticultural area is flourishing. Suisun Valley was established as an appellation in 1982, and while it shares a climate and county border with Napa Valley, this predominantly agricultural area grew slowly as a wine destination. Today the word is out on Suisun, but the pace here is slower, and bottles and tastings remain far more affordable than those of its Napa neighbors.
This friendly, relaxed valley is colloquially called “Napa’s Backside,” and it differs from chic Napa. Lisa Howard, a second-generation farmer and self-taught winemaker who founded Suisun’s Tolenas Winery, explains what makes it special. “Suisun Valley is the definition of a hidden gem. It’s the wine country everyone imagines, where small families own the wineries, everyone knows each other and waves, and each wine has a story.”
It’s best to visit during spring and fall when the weather is mild, but the climate is comfortable year round. Suisun grows 23 different wine grapes but is best known for its Petite Sirah, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon varietals. Many wineries don’t require tasting reservations, allowing you to hop from winery to winery as time allows.
Suisun Sips: Where to Taste
There are currently ten wineries open for tasting in Suisun Valley, all within a few minutes of each other. Start your day at Village 360, a tasting room fused with a restaurant and coffee shop. Sip lattes featuring housemade syrups at Buzz Coffee, and stay for a tasting of its BackRoad Vines wines. Or start sampling vino nearby at Suisun Valley newcomer Bally Keal Estate. This locally owned business specializes in Irish hospitality and is the area’s first winery, brewery, and distillery combined. Set among vineyards and rolling hills, its new tasting room serves everything from Chardonnay to Cabernet Sauvignon, beer, and its whiskey, brandy, and eau de vie. Reservations are not required for tasting, and you can linger afterward to visit the car museum where classic Chevrolet Bel Airs, Porsches, a helicopter, and other vintage vehicles are on display.
Continue your wine tasting just down the road at family-run Tolenas Winery. Here, reservations are not required, and families can join for outdoor tastings in the garden. Nicknamed “the speakeasy of Suisun Valley,” this nine-year-old gem is tucked away down a country road in the southernmost part of the valley. While there’s no flashy sign, the winery’s Victorian house is where the owner grew up, and today serves flights of its wines — best paired with its signature charcuterie cones. Run by a husband-and-wife team, Tolenas grows all its grapes onsite, and the estate boasts one of the valley’s only Pinot Noir vineyards. Tolenas also prides itself on producing unique expressions of its Pinot Noir varietal, including a White Pinot Noir called Eclipse, a traditional Pinot Noir called Totality, a Sparkling Eclipse Blanc de Noir, and a Rose of Pinot Noir.
Discover an affordable two-for-one stop nearby at Vezer Family Vineyards. Pay one price to sample wines at both its Suisun Valley locations: one in a historic blue Victorian home-turned-vineyard, the other in the center of Suisun Valley at Mankas Corner.
Don’t miss a final stop at Suisun Valley’s jewel: Caymus-Suisun. The Wagner family opened Caymus Vineyards over 50 years ago in Napa Valley, and you’ll find its award-winning wines on store shelves across America. However, the family-run company opted into the Suisun boom in 2022, opening a new, modern tasting room in this fertile valley. The design feels more akin to a luxe resort than a winery, with a chic tasting room boasting floor-to-ceiling windows, promenades of palm trees, and gorgeous orchard and vineyard vistas from every seat.
Reservations are required for tasting, but they run just $25 for seated sips of five of its Suisun-produced wines. Uniquely, you can visit without a reservation to order a glass of wine at the bar. After tasting, boost your energy with a complimentary espresso served outside the gift shop. While the winery closes each day at 4 p.m., it hosts occasional evening events pairing pours of wine with live music on the patio.
Sample Local Olive Oil
Whether you need a break from wine tasting, or simply love organic olive oil, don’t miss Suisun Valley’s family-owned, artisan olive oil company. Il Fiorello grows all of its olives onsite and mills and produces its oil entirely from these certified organic groves. Make a reservation to experience a guided, comparative sampling of its extra virgin oils, co-milled fruit oils, and balsamic vinegar reductions. Taste the oils individually, then pair each with chef-prepared bites to experience the complex flavors. Stay for lunch on the orchard-view patio, or treat yourself to an ice cream topped with olive oil and sea salt.
Apres at Mankas Corner
Once the wineries close, follow the locals to the hub of Suisun Valley: Mankas Corner. Visit Suisun Filling Station, a gas station-inspired tasting room, for wine or beer from local producers, and shop for Suisun-made jam, jelly, and olive oil. Pair your glass with a meal from the Filling Station’s food truck, or find heartier, sit-down fare across the street at Mankas Grill.
Suisun Valley isn’t larger, flashier Napa, but its warm hospitality adds to the area’s charm. “Suisun Valley was built around the farming community,” says Howard. “Our humble valley is our home and our legacy — we live here. The growers, winemakers, chefs, and creatives all work together to make Suisun Valley the best it can be while preserving its rustic nature and welcoming spirit. Suisun Valley was always destined for greatness; we were just kept a secret for longer than others.”
Featured image courtesy of Visit Fairfield
