Worth Traveling For
In some ways, I fell for Capella Kyoto before even arriving. To me, Capella is synonymous with gracious hospitality and exceptionally thoughtful luxury. But I also loved the backstory of this particular property: the site was a former elementary school in the heart of the close-knit neighborhood of Miyakawa-chō. Its aesthetically pleasing revival — at the hands of Japan’s national treasure, architect Kengo Kuma, along with the neighboring renowned geiko theater Miyagawa-chō Kaburenjo — was more than enough to magnetize me. I counted down to its opening.
As expected, even my high expectations were surpassed starting with the moment my car pulled up to the hotel’s porte cochere lined rhythmically with bamboo and lattice-stacked timber. The pale pink-and-green, color-blocked noren — a seasonal commission from Kyoto-based Dutch textile designer Mae Engelgeer — signaled the forthcoming arrival of spring and its iconic sakura, and acted as an inviting portal into the machiya townhouse-inspired bolthole of 89 rooms and suites.
True to endlessly elegant Japanese form, simply entering the hotel is an exquisite journey of its own — portals open to multi-sensorial art installations, rooms unfurl thanks to sliding panels, and there’s even a multi-floor, indoor waterfall cascading en route to the Living Room, where guests are invited to gather nightly for an intimate graceful performance by a neighborhood geiko or maiko. Thanks to Brewin Design Office, the guest rooms are somehow chicly pared back yet abundant — overflowing with luminosity, feeling, and soul.
Hotel Highlights
In a city with nearly 100 Michelin-starred restaurants, a hotel can easily be but a jumping-off point, but in this case, Capella Kyoto’s main culinary event, SoNoMa by SingleThread, is worth the entire trip to Japan. A hard-to-attain reservation for the 12-seat chef’s counter by the inimitable team behind Sonoma, California’s three-starred SingleThread is guaranteed with the stay.
Throughout my dinner were moments of gastronomic ecstasy that compelled me to slow down in a futile attempt to stop the dish from ending. There was decadent chawanmushi topped with an ethereal cloud of Hokkaido potato and caviar, and cherry trout salmon that emerged from a fog of sakura chip vapor and melted smokily on my tongue. Paired flawlessly with each course was, naturally, some flawless sip — wine to sake, faux vermouth to veggie-filled cocktail — and casual yet captivating storytelling that felt so much more California than one would imagine being possible from an omakase experience in Japan.
Along with the signature Japanese-Californian mashup is a French brasserie serving three meals a day: think addictive king crab pain perdu with kumquat, a late-night dining and drinking venue called Yoi (meaning “twilight”) that melds beautifully crafted cocktails with kappo counter culture and gorgeous sharing dishes, and a takeaway patisserie counter with confections so pretty you’ll feel bad eating them. This Capella is not only in possession of a serene spa where the dependably fantastic lunar cycle–inspired treatments are offered, but also there are three private ofuro suites for Japanese bathing in steaming spring water.
Rooms & Experience
Softer, warmer, and deeper in wood color than the public spaces, the rooms — like my 538-square-foot Premier Temple King, looking directly at Kennin-ji Temple complex (Kyoto’s oldest) — and suites (which go up to a couple thousand square feet for the two-bedroom Capella Suite) are like artful hugs. The headboards feature calligraphy artwork rendered in nishijin textile with flecks of metallic picked up by abundant sunlight streaming in through large windows with graceful linen sheers.
Carpeting is a plush version of tatami mats, and the 600-thread-count Frette bedding along with silky snow-white pajamas made of white birch fiber made for an absolutely sumptuous sleep. Every little touch is catered to — sweet miniature crafts at turndown, a television secreted away behind movable screens, elaborate minibar — and the jet-black bathtub, designed to overflow luxuriously, was its own fabulous ritualistic moment with heavenly custom bath salts.
One of my favorite things about Capella properties is their thoughtful curation of evocative experiences. Here, the curation includes a fascinating and fun immersion at a unique 150-plus-year old geta sandal atelier–cum-private library where I left with greater understanding of the tradition as well as a cool pair for myself. The neighboring kaburenjo — also reimagined by Kengo Kuma — is an intriguing place to tour or see a performance. In the cortisol-reducing Living Room, where floral arrangements follow the micro seasons and there are always snacks and knowledgeable culturists available, there are a dozen or so gratis moments giving guests the chance to try making omamorella hand-stitched amulets, taste sake, or wrap fabric à la furoshiki.
What to Know Before You Book
Onsen enthusiasts should consider booking one of the six suites with dedicated traditional Japanese baths. And while the cherry blossom season is magical, consider checking in during a less busy time for the best experience in Kyoto.
Address: 130 Komatsucho, Higashiyama Ward, Kyoto, 605-0811, Japan
Closest Airport: The hotel is about one hour and 20 minutes drive from Osaka’s Kansai International Airport or a one hour and 15-minute direct train ride from the airport to Kyoto Station.
Featured image courtesy of Capella Kyoto. Travel Curator may earn a commission from booking links on this page.
