The day I made plans to visit The Retreat, the renowned Costa Rican wellness resort that health entrepreneur Diana Stobo opened in 2016, I decided I wanted to be perfect. I would only partake of the healthy food options available. I’d eschew alcohol, go to bed early, and rise with the sun for yoga, followed by a hike in the rainforest and a breakfast of green juice, chia pudding, and Costa Rican coffee. I’d eat slowly and gratefully, stopping at the first signal that my hunger had been sated. It would be hard but I could do it.
Except I didn’t. And it turned out I had a much better time for it.
Taking a break to reset at a wellness resort used to be an exercise in deprivation; the torment of hunger and caffeine withdrawal blunted only slightly by spa and wellness treatments, hikes, gallons of water, and hours of yoga, meditation and breathing exercises. You felt better at the end, but, damn, was it worth the pain?
I was four hours into my stay when the first vow — restorative yoga at 4 p.m. — cratered into an unexpected nap. I blame the room, a huge, soothing space with floor-to-ceiling windows that open onto a verandah suspended over the deep green landscape. By 6 p.m., I was standing in the just-opened La Diosa restaurant, which occupies a dramatic terrace set with mature trees, hanging plants, and a sapphire-hued pool overlooking mountains that had turned purple in the sunset. After a moment, Diana Stobo walked over with a glass of wine in her hand and asked if I would like one. Saying yes — there went the second vow — I decided that for a person with a healthy relationship with alcohol, wine and a wellness resort could easily coexist.
Costa Rica on a Plate: Chef Pablo Bonilla’s Culinary Alchemy
When we got to the food, I’d given up any pretense of perfection and went for it. I was glad I did. Two years before opening La Diosa and the more formal Mystique, Stobo hired acclaimed Costa Rican chef Pablo Bonilla to develop the menus. Bonilla is a leading voice in sustainable gastronomy in Central America; over the past 10 years he has built a culinary philosophy that highlights native ingredients, ancestral techniques, and the cultural memory of his country. For guests, that translates to approachable, delicious dishes that just happen to utilize a local grain, berry, or cooking technique. That night, I nibbled tiny tacos filled with arracache picadillo, a local root vegetable that reminded me of celery, and dipped cassava chips into creamy hummus made from palm berries and scented with za’atar. There was also tuna tartar with a spicy squash jam and chunks of honey-drizzled fried chicken served over warm palm-flour waffles. The regular menu also includes a huge American-style salad with smoked goat cheese and a delicious version of brisket sliders.
Later in the week I indulged in Mystique’s eight-course tasting menu that uses individual dishes to illustrate Costa Rican history, memories, and traditions. A trio of soft bread, for instance, made with chickpeas, corn, and cassava, and served with smoky cheese was a tribute to a traditional afternoon break for airy bizcocho cake and cheese; small cups of flavor-packed vegetable broth paid homage to a practice where many families contribute to a long-cooked broth that would be enjoyed by all. Langostino was enlivened with bacon-smoked kimchi; an accompanying swath of soft breadfruit puree soaked up all the juices. For dessert, I reveled in ice cream infused with tapa dulce, the deeply flavored sugarcane treat that takes hours to create and tastes of caramel toffee.
Dairy and gluten-free breakfast, lunch, and dinner are also served at Sol Terrace, the resort’s original restaurant. Here, flavors of fruit and vegetables grown less than 20 feet away are clear and clean; zucchini “pasta,” roasted root vegetables, and grilled fish are wonderfully satisfying. I came to crave the emerald-green juice that arrived each morning with breakfast and loved the surprise of the tall, cool fruity drink that appeared when I sat down for lunch.
The Unexpected Origins of The Retreat
Diana Stobo had never planned to create a wellness resort, but when the opportunity presented itself to purchase jungled acreage at the base of a quartz mountain near the village of Atenas in Costa Rica, she followed a gut instinct and got to work. An author of award-winning books devoted to self healing through proper nourishment of body and soul, Stobo conceived a destination where all the elements of a healing lifestyle could come together to work their magic. The Retreat Costa Rica opened in 2016 with just eight rooms; guests dined on the virtuous but delicious dairy and gluten-free meals still served at Sol Terrace.
Today, though the resort has stayed true to its original mission, it has also expanded its offerings to appeal not just to guests looking for a true wellness retreat, but also to those looking for a bit more…flexibility. To that end, the resort just completed a $4 million expansion that added a new gym and yoga space, 10 glass-walled luxury lofts, and the two restaurants.
Move, Stretch, Sweat — or Don’t
Days at The Retreat can be as active — or sedentary — as you choose. I spent my first morning at the new gym being led through my paces under the sharp eye of the gentle yet exacting Carlos Roque, the resort’s trainer in chief. A competitive body builder, Roque is so intent on keeping guests injury free that, in between private training sessions, he roams the gym to offer guidance and assistance with machines, exercises, and stretching techniques. His tips are more than a passing comment about form: I watched as he guided one gymgoer after another for as long as they needed his help.
After a hike that wound through the jungle to a sunny lookout — there are 20 miles of private trails on the property — I made my way to the spa, where I would spend the next few hours motionless, prone, and fully relaxed. The spa could be a destination unto itself: it has a beautiful pool (one of three on the property) as well as outdoor relaxation aeries, secluded nooks, and a steam room.
As a guest not participating in one of the resort’s eight wellness programs, which include daily goal-supporting therapies, I had my choice of a remarkable 80 or so varied treatments. Though relaxing aromatherapy massages, hydrating facials, and glow-inducing scrubs are all on the menu, the resort’s Vida Mia Spa gave me a place to try something new — energy healing, Ayurvedic rituals, and crystal therapies are all offered in a safe, serene environment. My Self-Love treatment started with a scrub made from finely ground garnet and amber (said to promote emotional healing), followed by a Vichy shower and, finally, massage with blue tansy and bergamot-infused oils. I also reaped the benefits of a Kansa facial, which utilized both an Ayurvedic Kansa wand and Marma touch technique to detoxify, tone, and energize my skin while clearing my mind of stress.
As much as we all can benefit from deep tissue massage, I find them a bit stressful: untrained hands have left me bruised, aching, and wondering if I’d ever recover. My fears fell away the moment my Heart-Opening Deep Tissue massage started and my therapist released previously unknown knots, kinks, and tender spots with a surgeon’s precision. Twice-daily yoga classes take place in a stunning studio adjacent to the gym; I marveled at our instructor’s ability to create an environment that respected the rituals of yoga yet allowed for her signature style to shine through. Classes are serious but welcoming and can accommodate all levels.
I may not have achieved the perfection I thought I needed prior to arriving at The Retreat. But the resort most certainly did.
Feature image courtesy of The Retreat Costa Rica
