Bonaire, that quietly charismatic curve in the Dutch Caribbean, is the “B” in the region’s famed ABCs — and arguably its best-kept secret. Larger than Aruba but home to just 24,000 residents (and not a single traffic light), the island has perfected the art of slowing down. It’s the kind of place where time stretches, cell service fades, and barefoot becomes the default.
But don’t let its laid-back energy fool you. Bonaire has quietly cultivated a food scene that rivals far splashier destinations. On a per-capita basis, it may well have the highest concentration of fine-dining, tasting-menu restaurants in the world. And these aren’t second-tier efforts — they’re refined, chef-driven kitchens run by a wave of European transplants who’ve traded Michelin for mangroves. Add in a new generation of local talent trained in their wake, and you’ve got an island where the food is as transportive as the sunsets.
Luxury stays have followed suit, with a fresh crop of boutique hotels elevating Bonaire’s accommodations game without losing the island’s soulful charm. Pair that with its long-standing reputation as a global hub for diving, snorkeling, and wind sports, and find an island destination that checks every box — adventure, culture, and now, indulgence.
Getting there is even easier. Direct flights from New York, Atlanta, and Miami now land at Flamingo International Airport — a name that, frankly, feels just right.
The Hotels: Stay in Style
Delfins Beach Resort, a member of the Tapestry Collection by Hilton, offers a range of accommodation types with contemporary style at its beachfront setting. Studio-style hotel rooms scale all the way up to private villas, with long-term stays a breeze thanks to apartment-style amenities. A large resort pool is the heart of the property, but you’ll be impressed with its legit sustainability credentials, too. It doesn’t hurt that the hotel is the home of the Brass Boer (highlighted below), either.
The Harbour Village Beach Club feels just like that, a small village of its own, with rooms spread across a series of low-slung buildings separated by lush pathways. The property abuts the harbor itself — and the Melisa Sailing is docked around the corner, another win-win — and has a small slice of quiet beachfront. The hotel is known for its comprehensive diving program and operates its own fleet for excursions. It’s also easy to snorkel right offshore. Rooms here feature easy-living amenities such as full kitchens, while the property is home to a spa, a pool, and the La Balandra restaurant, resting atop the water and stylized as a wooden sailing ship.
The Dining: Embark On One Fine-Dining Feast After Another
Forget everything you thought was possible about dining in a relaxed beach getaway such as Bonaire. The tasting menus from one restaurant to another on the island are spectacular.
Consider Zara’s, where chef Janos Vermaat brings the flavors of the island to life at a 10-person chef’s counter doling out lavish tasting menus. He left behind the high-stress environs of a three-Michelin star restaurant in Europe, began working on the island, and is now running his own operation. Zara’s contains two dining concepts housed within an art gallery. Upstairs, order from an a la carte menu amid a rooftop setting with a sunset view. Downstairs, the chefs take center stage while orchestrating a captivating dinner experience.
At Brass Boer, the owners of the Michelin-starred Brass Boer Thuis in the Netherlands opened up an island outpost. Set on a large stone patio atop crashing ocean waves, the restaurant takes advantage of its stunning setting to deliver cuisine combining well-honed technique with bright local flavors and stories.
On Bonaire, even the booze cruises get a culinary makeover. Melisa Sailing might seem like a typical tropical sunset sailing affair, but the cuisine is elevated by the chef, who worked with chef Janos at several of his prior stops. On board the ship, he delivers a six-course dinner with a number of standout dishes, a pleasant surprise versus the buffet of cold hors d’oeuvres usually found in such settings.
Still hungry? Biña and Chefs Bonaire from chefs Han ten Winkel and Mark Tromop, and Restaurant Wanapa at a boutique hotel of the same name, all have recommended tasting-menu dinners to try. Chefs in particular is in high demand, with reservations often booking up months in advance, though it’s worth giving a call on short notice, as a last-minute cancellation could be a boon for you, as it was for several travelers I met during my stay.
The Water Sports: Get Adventurous
Before Bonaire became a renowned fine-dining destination, it was a water sports haven, and has long been rated as a premier diving destination, so much so that its surrounding waters are a protected marine park. Whether you want to get your certification, or explore some of its touted diving spots that require a bit more experience, you’ll be in luck. There’s also a burgeoning windsurfing and kiteboarding community on the island.
For a different perspective above the water, visit the Washington Slagbaai National Park. The park occupies about 20 percent of the island, and an operator such as Hopi Bonaire can take you out on an exploratory drive through the site, the lands which were once large plantations. You’ll see thousands of flamingos — Bonaire is one of the few nesting grounds for the flamingo — sea turtle nesting sites, and all types of local flora, fauna, and geologic formations.
“Bonaire is where you go if you love nature, as well as diving and snorkeling,” says Bas Ronteltap, who runs Hopi Bonaire with his wife Jessica. Like so many before them, the duo came to the island and decided they wanted to stay, opening up their tour company two years ago. “We fell in love with the island.”
Visitors to Bonaire end up contributing to the preservation and protection of its environment, something you shouldn’t mind one bit. This includes the mandatory visitor entry tax, currently $75, as well as a $40 STINAPA fee for those participating in water activities or visiting the national park.
The Excellent Everyday Eats & Drinks
It’s not just tasting menus on Bonaire, and even feverish fine-dining devotees need a quicker and more casual turn here and there. A few recommended quick bites include the pun-heavy breakfast spot Between 2 Buns, and a number of popular food trucks, such as Stoked. The latter is found at Te Amo Beach, operates out of a retrofitted double decker bus, and is known for its burgers.
After visiting the national park, stop into Posada Pura Mira. The colorful art-filled, open-air dining room is a hub for tourists and locals alike, and is known for its can’t-miss renditions of local cuisine. That includes iguana stew, if you’re up to the task. But maybe the goat stew is more up your alley, with the super-tender meat served on a plate with a hearty collection of fixings: funchi, which is a polenta-like cornmeal that’s sliced and fried, along with rice, beans, and fried plantains.
Cacti are prominent across Bonaire, and Cadushy Distillery puts its namesake to use with a Nickelodeon slime-green cactus liqueur flavored with lime. Alongside that is a veritable neon rainbow of liqueurs showcasing flavors from across the isles of the Dutch Caribbean. More serious imbibers may opt instead for a lineup of rum, whiskey, vodka, and gin.
Whether you visit Bonaire for its relaxed charm, the diving, or the food, you’ll find another reason or two to come back and return to the island time and again. Bonaire attracts a growing number of first-time visitors, but few of them call their first visit their last.
Featured image courtesy of Tourism Corporation Bonaire. We may earn a commission from booking links on this page.
