All is still and steamy on Rinca Island, equal parts earthy tans and dense greens, save for a long, yellowish tongue flicking about. It’s the forked tongue of a Komodo dragon, a creature that — more than any other — defines the word ancient. And it’s not only the look of the appendage that I find disconcerting — it’s what it means. “It’s smelling us,” the park ranger says, “[Komodos] are very sensitive to blood.” Fortunately, none in the group are bleeding, plus we’re high on a wide wooden boardwalk, with the dragon — and several slumbering others — below. It’s fairly well-known that the Komodo dragon’s venom can be deadly and while the 10-foot-long lizards can run about 12-13 mph (as in faster than me), they cannot climb. As the beast with a hide like charred firewood decides to go for a stroll, the mood immediately goes from fearsome to funny; the dragon’s gait like a saddle-sore cowboy, comically swinging each leg in exaggerated semi-circle steps.
Komodo dragons, in a category with the most obscure and endangered wildlife, are fascinating to watch — and learn about. I found the visitors center on Rinca teeming with details that only enhanced my experience of watching modern-day dinosaurs. There are estimated to be fewer than 3,500 Komodo dragons remaining in the wild, and they are all on the handful of islands that make up Indonesia’s own Jurassic Park. It was well worth an afternoon spent hiking in search of more dragons plus mind-blowing vistas. Because as incredible as it is to be in the presence of a reptile that has been around for 1.4 million years, the environment they call home is as spectacular as it gets. Cone-shaped islands emerge from a bold turquoise sea and beaches are composed of soft pink sand — others black or eggshell. These are just a couple of the sublime natural draws of Komodo, Rinca, and the surrounding islands that make up the protected Komodo National Park in the Lesser Sunda chain, which comprise a couple handfuls of the 17,500-plus islands in the Indonesian archipelago.
Labuan Bajo, a somewhat developed fishing village on Flores island, is the gateway to Komodo National Park, which is reached only via boat since there are no airports on the protected isles. And while it’s still wildly under visited compared to Bali (some 75 minutes away by air), the destination is quietly starting to become more known thanks in large part to the recent debut of a spectacular resort — Ta’aktana, a Luxury Collection Resort & Spa, Labuan Bajo — just five minutes from LBJ. Nonstop flights from Singapore are starting this year.
Ta’aktana is the newest reason to sojourn to the UNESCO World Heritage Site and its 669 square miles of wonder. But fleets of elegant yachts are constantly trying to one-up each other with ever-more-bespoke experiences, too, making the destination a place not only to gaze upon living dragons, but where pampering luxury and awe-inspiring adventure combine into the ultimate holiday. With increased connectivity plus truly sumptuous hospitality, it’s no wonder the destination is becoming increasingly captivating to travelers, especially those who feel they have seen it all. For devotees of more traditional resort experiences there are diverse options on land, while those seeking adventure on the high seas will find it on one of the luxury yacht charters that sail the mesmerizing waters.
The best part about the Komodo region: there is no wrong choice.
For Island Lovers Rooted on Land
Ta’aktana, a Luxury Collection Resort & Spa, Labuan Bajo
There’s a lot to love about Marriott’s gorgeous first property on Flores, where prehistoric seascapes backdrop decadent dinners (ranging from Indonesian to Japanese). A beachside swim-up bar is perfect for cocktail breaks, while the views from the plush beds in the resort’s 70 suites and villas are mind boggling. Snorkeling or standup paddleboarding from the jetty might reveal sea turtles, day trips to Komodo of course spotlight the iconic dragons, and overland outings highlight the region’s distinctive West Manggarai culture, complete with fight dances performed by fancifully costumed local men. It may be controversial to say, but you’ll get a better Balinese massage at Di’a Spa (the name means “beautiful”) than in much of Bali. There are local coffee scrubs that prep skin for a beautiful tan, and flower-drenched scalp treatments that come with a Dyson hairdryer blowout at the salon. The property also makes meaningful effort to engage its guests through hands-on opportunities to cook and play mixologist using the sopi, the local liquor that’s made traditionally with palm sap.
Ayana Komodo Waecicu Beach
Bali’s Ayana was the very first five-star hospitality brand to open in the Komodo region, back in 2018, and it’s still setting a high standard. Guests may be perfectly happy not leaving the resort, which has seven restaurants plus a stunning sandy beach, oceanview rooms, kids club, spa, and multiple pools. But they’d be missing out, obviously. The property boasts a wooden ship, Lako D’ia, for full-day Komodo and island-hopping jaunts, plus a glass-bottom boat, snorkeling, and coral-planting activities.
Amanwana
One of the most adventurous Aman resorts, Amanwana — with 17 sumptuous guest tents within a different national park, Moyo Satonda, off Sumbawa — is not actually in the Komodo, but halfway between there and Bali and has the spirit of wild exploration baked into it. Last year the property launched a first-of-its-kind Underwater Wellness Retreat, which is customizable to the guest but includes experiences such as underwater meditation, free diving, an interactive underwater photography workshop, waterfall-side breathwork, and a whale shark excursion to Saleh Bay. To actually visit Komodo, guests can tack on a live-aboard expedition on the sister phinisi boat.
For Discovery by Sea
Vela
Private, ultra-customized, and lavish are signatures of the exclusive-use, 164-foot phinisi yacht Vela designed by naval architect Tresno Seery. Perennial favorite Komodo is among its destinations for up to 12 guests — who can sprawl out in 6 contemporary designed state rooms decorated with Indonesian artifacts, textiles, and Bali-made ceramic tiles or on a plethora of comfy daybeds and sun loungers. Itineraries are tailored completely to travelers’ interests, however subject to weather, and can include as many captivating land-based outings as underwater ones. A stop on Komodo or Rinca islands (for the Komodo dragons), is a requisite, of course, but beyond are thrilling scenic hikes and climbs to lookout peaks, jaunts to deserted beaches with jewel-like waters (and pink sands), and stops for intimate and once-in-a-lifetime swims with whale sharks and manta rays.
Amandira
Aman’s custom-built yacht is modeled after Indonesia’s phinisi ships, which are UNESCO recognized for intangible cultural heritage of humanity. It has 5 cabins for up to 10 guests who are looked after by a staff of 14 that includes a dive master, pair of chefs, and massage therapist. Among itineraries is the five-to-seven night Komodo Cruise Expedition, which is a deluxe trip through the Nusa Tenggara archipelago for superb diving at Sabayor and Batu Monchu Bay. At the latter, dolphins and manta rays are frequently spotted.
The Yacht Club Indonesia
This charter-yacht company is the ticket to a world-class voyage through Komodo onboard a handcrafted-in-Indonesia cruiser that does not require buying out the whole boat. Instead, would-be explorers can book a single cabin on a scheduled sailing and potentially make friends with fellow guests along the way. Mutiara Laut and Aliikai are two of the most luxurious options, both equipped with all of the expected creature comforts plus fun equipment such as snorkeling, diving, stand-up paddleboard gear, and massage services.
Inspirato
The luxury vacation club, Inspirato, also offers a Bali to Labuan Bajo journey on Aqua Blu — a 15-suite cruise yacht — that includes waterfall swimming on Moyo Island, kayaking in an extinct volcano’s crater, and encountering whale sharks along with the iconic sites in Komodo National Park.
Featured image courtesy of Aman.
