Just a few minutes off I495 (a.k.a. the capital beltway) — out of the bumper-to-bumper, stop-for-construction DC traffic I’ve been inching through — I see them, forever ingrained in my cellular memory: the purple cornflower-hued Blue Ridge Mountains. As if on cue, the road narrows, twisting and turning through small towns reminiscent of the English countryside, and past sprawling horse farms.
Home.
I grew up in these verdant, rolling-hills parts (just a tad further north on the Mason Dixon line). But the terrain is the same. And while I’ve been gone for decades from this mesmerizing mountain range, the beauty and tranquility of the region always brings me back to a quieter, more genteel way of life — a place where people still sip sweet tea from front-porch rocking chairs, and where sweet honeysuckles and even sweeter sugar magnolias perfume the summer night air. It’s a place of thoroughbred horses and grapes ripening in the sun waiting to be spun into wine.
Virginia is now the fifth-largest wine producer in the US; 60 of its wineries cut through this region — The Middleburg Virginia American Viticultural Area (AVA). Historic Middleburg (population less than 900 and my final destination) is also where former First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy would escape the White House to ride her prized horses, one a gift from King of Pakistan Ayub Kahn. And in more recent years where American billionaire businesswoman and co-founder of BET, Sheila Johnson, laid roots for wellness with the opening of Salamander Middleburg.
The Stay
There is only one stoplight in Middleburg — named for its location midway between Alexandria and Winchester, Virginia — and best known for its cobblestone sidewalks, age-old, born-again pubs, and truly fabulous antique and specialty shops. Make a right at the lone light and follow the long, flower-lined drive to Salamander, where your luggage is instantly collected; car valet parked.
Prior to opening the spa resort in 2005, Johnson came to Middleburg by way of horses. Her daughter, Paige, an accomplished equestrian, was frequently in the area; nearby Upperville is host to the longest running horse show in the US, while Middleburg is known as the nation’s horse and hunt capital. After falling in love with Middleburg especially, Johnson purchased a home here, and in time 340 acres. And on the heels of a divorce and amid her own spiritual healing journey, she created her first-ever spa resort, Salamander Middleburg —a trifecta of spa, equine, and culinary experiences. Today, her collection includes: Salamander Washington DC; Half Moon, Montego Bay, Jamaica; Aspen Meadows Resort, Colorado; Hotel Bennett, Charleston, South Carolina; and Innisbrook Resort in the St. Petersburg/Clearwater Florida area.
As I settle into my room, opening wide the terrace doors overlooking the great lawn, I notice couples strolling hand in hand, as families (intergenerational) play life-sized chess on the grass and toast s’mores around blazing fire pits. A few guests have fur babies in tow; the resort is super dog friendly (up to two dogs are invited) and rooms with walk-out patios on the ground level are reserved for canine families. Inside my own (third-floor) room, coffee-table-style books line the shelves, many art and architecture focused; subtle equine touches grace the walls and doors, while the high-poster bed draped in mounds of cushy white and the deep-soaking tub remind me I’m back in a slower southern lane. But it is the spa that brings me home.
The Spa
After dipping into the steam and reclining on the warming laconium relax benches, I pad — in soft chocolate-hued robe and slippers — outside to the quiet-zone, adults-only spa pool, a new addition since my last visit. Flanked by fragrant magnolia trees and waving sea grass, I’m met with a sea of blue (water, sky, umbrellas) which is instantly relaxing. Sipping hot lemon tea in the elements (firepit and pool), I have the entire deck to myself as I wait for Hannah, my therapist, to retrieve me.
Leading me into a dim-lit room, she explains my signature Grand Cru (pinot noir) treatment featuring the French product line, Vinésime, which utilizes the entire grape to oxygenate, plump, and hydrate the skin. The treatment — a nod to Virginia’s wine country — includes a full-body exfoliation, massage, wrap, scalp massage, and lotion application. But it’s so much more. During my 90 minutes on the table, Hannah identifies my (medically confirmed) double thumb arthritis and sends me off with exercises to eliminate the scrunching of shoulders and off-balance distribution of weight, due most likely to the way I sit (often one knee tucked under the other), when writing. Leaving the spa, potent with grape oil and hair in a messy bun, my plan is to clean up (i.e. soak in my in-room tub) before a casual dinner at Gold Cup, the equestrian-inspired bar. But as I pass by the buzzy eatery enroute to my room, the host waves me in, “you are perfect as you are, and tonight is taco and tequila night” (read: spicy margaritas and shrimp taco casual).
The next evening, I arrive to dinner at Harrimans Grill, the resort’s circular, fine-dining restaurant headed by Chef Jose Linares, in much more presentable attire — the new ‘Jackie O’-style, 60s-mod dress I found shopping ‘downtown’ Middleburg. Wine is (again) on the menu. Earlier in the day, I had made an impromptu visit to nearby boutique winery, Greenhill Vineyards, reportedly former First Lady Michelle Obama’s vineyard of choice. Here, I opted for a glass of Intuition, a white-wine blend made from seyval blanc, traminette, and vidal blanc; other fun labels include Superstition, Mythology, Philosophy, and Eternity. While I heard that the cheese plate was divine, I skipped the temptation, saving room for dinner. Now seated by one of Harrimans massive floor-to-ceiling windows — horses in the distance; gardens in full bloom — I watch my server expertly pair a local Virginia Chardonnay with my fresh fish and roasted vegetables, and later surprise me with the most decadent chocolate cake.
The Horses
Any trip to Middleburg would of course be remiss without some form of equine therapy and again, Salamander Middleburg does not disappoint. The resort’s pristine’s equine center sits just steps away; some guests choose to partake in a guided group trail ride or one-on-one instruction; others are content to quietly visit the (14) horses in their stalls with Ashley Farrell, director of the equine program, who knows everything there is to know about the stunning creatures and then some.
“It’s all about energy,” Ashley tells me, as we stop to visit Stella, an 1,150-pound Arabian beauty. “Horses are very sensitive to energy. They communicate through body language, [humans] just need to understand what they are saying.“
Case in point: we move next to Mack, a 1,600-pound white Belgian horse who arrived at Salamander from a working Amish farm. A small sign warns visitors that he may bite. “But all horses may bite,” Ashley notes. And as Mack walks directly toward me, his steel-blue eyes clear and knowing, I intuitively understand there is nothing to fear.
“If you remember earlier, “Ashley continues — Mack now gently nudging me to stroke him — “there was high energy (she is referring to three small children running through the barn). You see now that Mack is licking his lips, yawning even. That means he feels calm, not tired, and that he is releasing stress and anxiety. Horses’ mouths tell us everything we need to know about them. They are hard wired; they shift and react to the energy around them. See this girl — eyes closed, a back leg pointing,” she moves to yet another glorious creature. “This means the horse is truly at rest; note how her other three legs are locked so she feels completely secure. Horses are a mirror of ourselves really, and they exude healing; our heart rate is instantly lowered just by being around them.”
Other Must Dos in Middleburg
More Wineries: Aside from Greenhill Vineyards (don’t forget the cheese plate), visit Boxwood, focusing on Bordeaux-style blends; Cana Vineyards and Winery, and Chrysalis Vineyards. Note: the Salamander Middleburg staff transports guests to and from any winery within a five-mile radius of the hotel.
More Eateries: Built in 1728 and listed on the National Registry of Historic Places, The Red Fox Inn & Tavern is one of the oldest, continuously operating inns in the United States. The tavern is known for its traditional Piedmont furnishings and hearty Americana pub fare paired with local Virginia wines. Oyster lovers will also want to make a stop at King Street Oyster Bar, serving ten-plus oyster varieties daily (many from Virginia and Maryland) and none more than 24 hours out of East coast waters (Long Island NY, Massachusetts, Prince Edward Island, Canada). And for cooking enthusiasts, Salamander Middleburg also has its own onsite cooking school.
Middleburg Film Festival: First held in October 2013, the now-acclaimed Middleburg Film Festival was founded by Salamander’s Sheila Johnson and filmmaker Susan Koch. Attracting the likes of actors Emma Stone, Maggie Gyllenhaal, Brendon Fraser, Dakota Johnson, and Meg Ryan, among others, the annual four-day October event is now a major stop on the Oscar trail.
Antiquing: Spanning just six blocks, ‘downtown’ Middleburg is notorious for its antique shops and upscale boutiques. My personal swoon (aside from my Jackie O dress) comes at an unassuming vintage consignment shop, Another Blue Moon, where I am met with a dreamy all-white, fossilized-clam coffee table. Admittedly, my heart skipped. For the past several months, I have been eying a similar table at a coastal shop near my home (at triple the price). My first thought is not whether or not to purchase the table, but how to get it home; the must-have treasure will not fit in my car. My second is that I still have family in the area who may be able to help. But my clarity comes in the white Silverado sitting idly in my driveway — my partner’s must-have treasure. Surely I can convince him to make the trek south; Middleburg is, after all, worth the drive.
Note: Middleburg is an hour drive from Washington DC; two hours from Baltimore, MD, and Charlottesville, VA; three hours from Philadelphia, PA; and four-and-a-half hours from New York City.
Feature image courtesy of Salamander Middleburg.
