Sorrento, a must-stop along the Amalfi, sets the pace for how travelers experience this stretch of coast. The town moves at an easy, unforced pace with cafés that fill early, streets that stay lively well into the evening, and a coastal layout that gives you constant orientation between the marina, the cliffs, and the bay. From here, Capri is a short boat ride, Positano sits just down the curve of the coast, and Mount Vesuvius frames the horizon with a presence that’s unmistakably cinematic without trying to be.
Set above the Marina Piccola, Sorrento occupies a distinct place in the Italian landscape: polished but not self-serious, storied without feeling museum-like, and undeniably glamorous in a way that aligns more with lived-in elegance than spectacle. It’s a gateway, a base, and often the place travelers realize they want to stay longer than planned.
And then there are the properties that let you experience Sorrento beyond the usual check-in rhythm this part of Italy is notoriously known for. At the top of that list is one of its most iconic stays: Grand Hotel Excelsior Vittoria.
The property began as a private residence in the 1800s, built by the Fiorentino family, who shaped much of its villa-like character long before it became a hotel. Its original gardens, terraces, and recreational spaces were designed for family life, a layout that still defines how the estate feels today. That history explains the smaller-scale basketball court, soccer area, and relaxed outdoor amenities — each a nod to the home it once was. A pool anchors the outdoor area, alongside two dining venues, creating an easy, low-key rhythm for summer days spent outside.
A Villa That Feels Like the Sorrento You Came For
Calling Grand Hotel Excelsior Vittoria a hotel almost feels too modest. It’s a villa estate in the truest sense. Privately existing behind wrought-iron gates (with security at the front to prevent non-guests from wandering in), set amid acres of manicured gardens, and imbued with century-old glamour that has entertained royals, artists, and powerful families for generations. Step past the street-side entrance and the allure of old-world charm instantly cues: you’re suddenly inside a private Sorrentine universe.
The architecture is soaring ceilings, frescoed halls, and sweeping salons that seem designed for late conversations with drinks. Yet the scale never overwhelms. Instead, it feels like being invited into someone’s home, one that’s been perfectly maintained and discreetly modernized. You walk through rooms that seem to hold their own stories with gleaming marble floors, chandeliers that have decades and decades of stories, and windows that frame the sea like commissioned artwork. Breathtaking and subtly grand, even breakfast in the salon (with pianist) feels like an occasion.
And then you arrive at your suite.
Suites Made for Slow Mornings
The terraces here are just as big as your room. Your suite opens onto a private outdoor living room with a clear, cinematic view of Mount Vesuvius. You’ll take a hundred photos of the coast and it still won’t be enough. In the mornings, the volcano appears hazy and pastel; by golden hour, it sharpens into a dramatic outline against the water. It’s the kind of view you want to drink your espresso with, perhaps barefoot, perhaps in a robe pretending you live here now.
Inside, the rooms strike that elusive balance of understated grandeur. Soft palettes, classical details, and thick curtains that make sleep feel indulgent. Everything is curated but never precious. It’s a place meant to be lived in, not tiptoed around.
Dining Worth Dressing Up For: The Michelin-Star Experience
Within the estate sits the hotel’s Michelin-starred treasure: Terrazza Bosquet. Dining here is straightforward in its ambition: refined Italian cooking done at a very high level with being just a tad theatrical. The tasting menus highlight Campania’s strengths of excellent seafood, bright citrus, and house-made pastas that are genuinely memorable. Portions are balanced, flavors are exact, and the kitchen’s confidence shows without ever feeling performative.
The setting does most of the work on atmosphere. You enter via an unassuming entrance on the same floor as several suites. You walk into a living room-type setting and take a seat. You think you’re waiting for your table, but your experience has already begun and along with a cocktail, you’ll be treated to a palette cleanser and a taste of what’s to come.
The service is polished. The timing, sharp. It’s the type of dinner you plan into your itinerary rather than stumble into and this meal will likely be the most memorable of your trip.
The Spa
The Vittoria Spa occupies a converted 19th-century greenhouse on the property, with treatment rooms that include private Jacuzzis and direct access to small garden areas. The menu focuses on practical, results-driven services rather than trends.
Standout options include classic deep-tissue massages that address real muscle tension and travel fatigue, along with tailored facials designed to counter dehydration, sun exposure, and the general wear that comes with exploring the coast. For something more comprehensive, the spa’s signature rituals combine massage, exfoliation, and hydration into longer sessions meant for full-body reset.
The environment is intentionally understated. You won’t find unnecessary flourishes here. While the spa itself isn’t a sprawling building, treatments are efficient, well executed, and designed to make you feel measurably better by the time you walk out.
Experiences That Define Sorrento
No trip to Sorrento is complete without seeing the coastline from the water, and the hotel makes arranging a private boat feel effortless. You step onto a sleek vessel, prosecco in hand, and watch the coast blur by. The concierge will arrange lunch either onboard or at a coastal restaurant. From here, Capri is a short ride away, and Positano is an easy glide down the coast.
Sorrento’s Don’t-Miss Gems
When you’re ready to wander beyond the estate, these are the places worth bookmarking:
The Museo Correale di Terranova, a beautifully curated museum offering a glimpse into Sorrento’s artistic and aristocratic past. Think Neapolitan paintings, fine ceramics, rare furniture, and gardens that look out over the sea. It’s intimate, elegant, and ideal for an unhurried morning.
Pizzeria da Franco is a no-frills, always packed, eternally delicious. This is the pizza place locals love — wood-fired, unfussy, and entirely addictive. Get the classic Margherita and let it ruin you for pizza anywhere else.
Romantic, warmly lit, and quintessentially Sorrentine, L’Antica Trattoria restaurant is a must. Expect garden seating, impeccable service, and dishes that celebrate regional flavors with just the right amount of refinement. It’s the kind of place where dinner becomes an evening.
The go-to spot in Sorrento for handcrafted holiday keepsakes is Christmas Shop — a year-round festive boutique on Via degli Archi where you’ll find beautiful handmade Christmas ornaments in glass, wood, and ceramic, many of which can be personalized as special mementos of your trip.
If you want even more local charm, Sorrento’s artisan ceramic shops (including stores featuring handpainted Amalfi Coast designs) also carry decorative ornaments and small handcrafted souvenirs that feel equally special.
A Sorrento institution, Gargiulo & Jannuzzi dates back to the 1800s, famous for hand-painted ceramics, intricate marquetry, and decorative pieces that feel like heirlooms. Their holiday ornaments — bright, detailed, unmistakably Amalfi — make the perfect souvenir if you want something both classic and crafted by local artisans.
Known primarily for its wood inlay craftsmanship, Stinga Tarsia workshop also carries small decorative pieces, including handmade ornaments and keepsakes that celebrate traditional Sorrentine artistry. It’s the kind of place where every object feels touched by a human hand, not mass production.
Feature image courtesy of Deanne Kaczerski
