overview shot of a body of water with a boat and yacht

St. Tropez? Capri? Antibes? Porto Cervo? No. In fact, I’m chugging across the Sea of Cortez along Mexico’s Baja Peninsula, the only passenger in a water taxi, cruising amid the sole harbor fashioned for super yachts in Los Cabos. Nothing in Mexico itself can compare. With 250 slips that welcome glamorous yachts as large as 300 feet, the Costa Palmas Marina on Los Cabos’ less touristy, more authentic East Cape astonishes me. If I was not speaking Spanish to my captain, I could easily mistake my location for one of the storied European yachting destinations in France or Italy. Could this buzzy marina (forecasted to be even more of a haven of first-in-class restaurants, shops, and residences as it burgeons during the next few months) be the new St. Tropez? Does that make Mexico — Los Cabos — the new Mediterranean? I ponder these things even as I cruise beneath the moonlight for the short boat ride from Four Seasons Los Cabos at Costa Palmas and consider the enchantment of this well planned and executed marina, chic and upscale, complete with a Los Cabos outpost of LA’s famed Italian eatery Mozza. Establishing an unprecedented standard as the first private marina under the peerless Four Seasons and Aman brands, it stands out as a pioneer. With Four Seasons Costa Palmas already established and Aman Residences slated to open soon, the marina simply rocks. 

Don’t have a yacht? No problem. I stayed at the Four Seasons Resort Los Cabos at Costa Palmas and rate it as ne plus ultra. Want to come back when you purchase the vessel of your dreams? There’s a slip waiting for you. 

The Hotel

a row of white lounge furniture on the beach at four seasons los cabos at costa palmas
Courtesy of Four Seasons Los Cabos at Costa Palmas

As the first hotel of a collection (Aman is next) that will compose this East Cape development, the Four Seasons Resort Los Cabos at Costa Palmas has that secret hideaway vibe with 141 commodious rooms. Attention to detail dominates here and extras such as artful shawls and stylish beach bags complete each art-decorated room and suite. The beach — long, swimmable, and wide — stretches for two miles. Far from the madding Cabo crowd, the resort lies an hour the opposite direction, not far from UNESCO-listed Cabo Pulmo, a marine preserve. The transfer by luxury car from the airport keeps things exotic as it takes you into a cacti-brimming desert scape, punctuated by villages and village life that quixotically signal further flung (or at least less commercial) Mexico. 

Cuisine and Libations

milos at four seasons los cabos, costa palmas, mexico
Courtesy of Four Seasons Los Cabos at Costa Palmas

The gorgeous main restaurant Estiatorio Milos rims the beach, but also serves as the heart of the resort. Though a Greek/Mediterranean restaurant with branches in New York, Montreal, Athens, and Las Vegas might seem an odd match, think again. Milos fits for various reasons. First, it showcases seafood which is the mainstay of Cabo cuisine culture — though it does it in a global array. Second, it furthers this underlying idea of the parallel between the Mediterranean and the East Cape. 

In the evening, Milos sets up a massive icy fish market, so grand it looks like an assemblage art piece. Festooned  with fresh seafood from around the world, the eye-popping display allows guests to peruse, pick and choose options unexpected in Mexico, such as Maine lobster and African monster prawns. But it also features Cabo fresh catch. Greek specialties and delectable Greek preparation (salt-crusted fish, lemon, olive oil) summon fresh, beach-y elegance, which very much reflects the overall resort ambiance and its understated sophistication. In the morning, the restaurant transforms to offer one of the most lavish breakfast buffets served in Mexico, if not the world. Utterly on theme culturally, the breakfast offers countless options, but standouts include fresh dates from the region, a table with Mexican coffee and Mexican hot chocolate served in pottery cauldrons, superior croissants, a section for customized chilaquiles or quesadillas (go for the huitlacoche or zucchini flower), and crunchy local accompaniments: think grasshoppers. 

Overall, the resort food delights. Other eateries include Casa de Brasa (try the shrimp tempura tacos), El Puesto for midday ceviche, and Limon, which has a casual outdoor Mexican grill atmosphere, as if you’ve gone to a friend’s home for a cookout. It  serves an array of appealing cocktails, roasted chicken, and stellar vegetarian dishes such as roasted cauliflower and squash blossom tart.

Across the water at the Marina Village, Mozza Baja, sister to the famous Los Angeles icon, brings Nancy Silverton’s soul-stirring Italian creations to Baja. Next door, Chiki, a truly stunning lounge and cocktail bar, beckons. And, as the Marina Village grows, more will come. This summer Costa Palmas will reveal a French-themed bistro from the mind of Fabien Cerato.

The Spa And Athletics

pools surrounded by palm trees at the four seasons los cabos at costa palmas
Courtesy of Four Seasons Los Cabos at Costa Palmas

Six diverse and appealing pools tempt guests, each woven into the resort’s fabric, each with its own mood. I spent early mornings at the lap pool, then made my way to the beach. The fitness center, designed by celebrity trainer Harley Pasternak, is a destination in itself for gym rats — there are ocean views from most of the equipment. Oasis Spa lives up to its name, with ten treatment rooms, complimentary wet areas, and a transcendent mood. Treatments run the gamut from results-driven facials by Natura Bisse and Tata Harper to restorative massages and body treatments. Reiki, meditation, and yoga can also be booked. A number of retreats, such as the summer adults-only Camp Verano, offer guests the opportunity to take part in active itineraries designed to explore the region and its culture while awakening inner repose and relaxation through new experiences.


four seasons los cabos at costa palmasu
Courtesy of Four Seasons Los Cabos at Costa Palmas

It’s hard to leave the beach, which made my highly recommended activity more than ideal. In season, guests can assist with the resort’s Sea Turtle Program, a wonderful eco-friendly opportunity to help with baby turtle release. Under the tutelage of a naturalist, we helped guard baby turtles from predators as they scrambled from the dunes to the sea. Snorkeling, sunset cruises, horseback riding, a waterfall hike, cooking classes, golf, swimming side-by-side with whale sharks, and fishing are just some of the possibilities.

Featured image courtesy of Costa Palmas