I could have walked to White Bay Beach but, running late for lunch, I hopped into one of the SUVs that are used on the hilliest of the winding roads. This rustic track is the only way to get to White Bay by land and the foliage — wild sage, frangipani, morning glory — is so thick that arriving feels like landing in another universe. It’s a perfect beach, a half mile of white sand, blue water, and rocky outcroppings that bookend the scene while conveniently providing a pair of snorkeling spots rife with tropical fish. There are also a few equally convenient Bali beds, where staff will deliver a lovely lunch that you can eat in the sun or the shade. On this day, other than a few sailboats moored just off shore, we had the beach to ourselves. Except for the sound of the waves, it was perfectly quiet, and yet, here we were, sipping Champagne, eating cheeseburgers, and feeling like the luckiest people in the world.
White Bay Beach is one of five beaches within Peter Island Resort in the British Virgin Islands. Opened in the 1970s, Peter Island is the type of gracious Caribbean resort where families return to see the same guests and staff members they’ve known for decades. Traditions abound — a weekly beach dinner, amaretto and strawberry-spiked pina coladas, cocktails at sunset point — and for years, little changed. Until 2017 that is — when a pair of hurricanes devastated the resort. Now, seven long restoration years later, the BVI classic has reopened. And while the layout of the property has been shuffled a bit, the soul of the resort remains.
Peter Island Resort bills itself as the largest private island resort in the British Virgin Islands, and while this is true, it’s probably not what you think. There are just 52 lodgings and, with the exception of two homes, they’re all clustered around the Deadman’s Bay Beach, the resort’s main strand. All of the rooms at Peter Island have a view of Deadman Bay; my beachfront junior suite was separated from the sand by nothing more than a couple of yards of emerald green lawn. I couldn’t quite feel the salt spray, but I could hear the waves as they slipped across the soft sand.
Stone walls and archways — which had been rebuilt on the foundation of some of the resort’s oldest suites by the original stonemason — had the timeless solidity of a stone cottage by the sea. The bathroom, which is reached through a stone archway, was huge and well appointed with two sinks, a deep soaking tub, and a spa shower. Suites located directly on the beach are clean and contemporary; most have decks with outdoor hot tubs. And — crafted by an Estonian company that specializes in hurricane-safe structures — are hurricane sturdy. All exterior materials and systems were Florida Building Products-approved for High Velocity Hurricane Zones.
The Beaches
Nearly all of the island’s 2,000 acres of hills, valleys, and beaches are completely undeveloped. Of the five beaches, two — Deadman and Little Deadman — are set within the heart of the resort. The others require a bit more determination, but the payoff is one of the most elusive of Caribbean experiences: an empty stretch of sand.
Though White Bay Beach is rarely crowded, there’s no guarantee you’ll have it to yourself. But Peter Island can make that dream come true with Honeymoon Beach, which sits on the far curve of Deadman’s Bay, separated — literally and visually – from little Deadman Beach by an impenetrable rock formation. Reserve your spot — morning or afternoon — and the beach is all yours. On the Atlantic side of the island, Big Reef Beach is too rough for swimming, but its sand is studded with shards of sea glass that glimmer softly in the sunshine.
After our morning at White Bay, we spent the afternoon at Deadman Beach, a mile-long crescent where you can borrow snorkel equipment, kayaks, and stand up paddleboards but not jet skis or anything noisy. Lunch and cocktails can be delivered to the beach or the adjacent pool deck.
Though decidedly low key, there’s definitely action to be had at Peter Island. Like most resorts in the BVI’s, Peter Island is home to a large yacht club that offers day and overnight dockage to vacationers exploring the BVI’s by boat. In addition to providing necessities like electricity and water, the marina has its own pool as well as an outdoor restaurant called the Drunken Pelican. Boisterous and casual, the waterfront watering hole is filled with both guests and sunburned sailors, all trading fish tales, storm stories, and directions to secret snorkel spots.
As much fun as it was at the Drunken Pelican, we chose to eat our meals at the Drake Steakhouse, a sleek, sophisticated space that serves breakfast, lunch and dinner indoors or outside on the terrace. Beyond big steaks — you can choose between USDA Prime and Wagyu — there’s lots of local fish and seafood, big salads, and indulgent desserts. There were also a number of creative choices for vegetarians including grilled lion’s mane mushrooms, sweet potato noodles enriched with miso and, of course, rice and peas and plantains.
Resorts can sometimes be a bit claustrophobic, but I never had even a twinge of island fever at Peter Island. One reason is all the open space. The five-mile round-trip hike to the top of Sunset Point is a great way to start the day; you can also catch a ride to the top for a sunset toast. Boat taxis to nearby restaurants — some inhabiting their own islands — are plentiful as are charters for fishing, snorkeling, or exploring the dozens of uninhabited isles that make up the archipelago. Peter Island also has a stunning spa where, post treatment, you can sip ginger tea on a shady portico that looks out over a round infinity pool tiled in iridescent green. Just beyond, tucked between two mountains with a view of the Atlantic, a tiny hot tub lies hidden within a seemingly random pile of rocks. It’s the perfect place to contemplate the untrammeled beauty of Peter Island…and plan your return.
Feature image courtesy of Peter Island Resort
